Base Endurance + Overall Body Strength

[mclay]

I'm starting a new training cycle today, and I'm experimenting this time with incorporating some things that aren't expressly prescribed in RCTM. I'm still new enough to climbing and training that I believe that sheer volume (ARC-ing and especially outdoor mileage) is probably the quickest way to improve right now. This will be my 4th cycle, but my first 2 were cut short for different reasons. 

I believe that my natural weakness is overall body strength. I'm tall and lanky - really long arms, and I've never been able to easily put on muscle. Obviously that isn't a real drawback in climbing, but it was when I was younger and played a lot of sports. But as I've tried to analyze my performance on rock so far, I think I mistakenly taken being reasonably lean and fit with having enough base strength to do all the necessary climbing movements. 

I started throwing in some of the Kris Peters' circuit training stuff he advocates in some of the old Team of 2 videos at the end of the last cycle. (ie pull-ups 30 seconds, pushups 30 seconds, more pullups, set of shoulder press, rest, repeat) I'm interested to know what others do during Base Endurance for supplementary exercises. Maybe some of the gymnast/wrestler types can get away with only doing pull-ups etc later in the cycle, but for me it seems like I need to supplement total body strength throughout.

[Chris W]

I keep thinking about how strong I really need to be to climb (not counting finger strength). I keep coming back to the fact that there are little pre-teen girls who can climb much harder stuff than I can. I feel like overall body strength helps keep me from being injured and achy. I feel like finger strength and a good finger strength/weight ratio plus good technique plus smart training plus smart planning plus a little luck with the weather and conditions help me climb harder stuff.

I still would love to have some stronger arms though...

[MarkAnderson]

Look at the "Whole Body Strength Training" section of Chapter 6. Pick some of those exercises and do 1-3 sets of each, increasing the resistance for each set (where possible).

[climbnkev]

Circuits will build some non specific strength endurance but will not help with strength and power. Take a look at Steve Betchel's book "Strength" for a in depth view of strength training for climbing.

I like the exercises that Mark has in his book, but I do not find them as effective as other methods for me. I am also the lanky type who struggles with building any strength. Alternating Betchel's training methods with basic kettlebell training programs have really been effective for me.