Thailand Trip (Training for and preparing)

[akbeard]

Hello to the community, I am new here and wanted to jump off into this forum with an introduction of myself.

I am a climber in Alaska and love it up here. In the last couple years (really a little during summer of 2015 and mostly winter gym climbing) I have found a reinvigorated love of climbing. I first found climbing while in college (University of Idaho) as a rehab exercise after I broke my foot during a track meet. I soon found myself in the bouldering area quite regularly and after switching my major to Geology I found myself constantly surrounded by rocks and good outcrops. But back to why I now find myself here in this forum. I am a consistent sport climber of 5.10 a through 5.11a. I redpoint up to 5.11d routes on toprope. I do find that the gym here is a bit sandbagged (i.e. routes are rated harder than they really are). I started climbing more outdoors this summer and have lead climbed slab, and vertical routes up to 5.10a but have only followed as a gear puller for trad climbing up to 5.8 for dihedral, hand crack and vertical routes.

I recently got married and have gotten my wife into climbing. We are heading to Thailand in December for our honeymoon and both thought that we would throw in some climbing while there. For me I approach climbing from an athletes viewpoint (former College track high jumper). She comes at this as a recreational climber (but her desire to climb more and also more difficult routes than 5.9's is becoming more prevalent). Thus I purchased a Trango Rock Prodigy Hangboard for myself and the training manual for both of us. I will be posting photos of my hangboard stand as I build it this coming weekend/next week. 

I will be using this thread as an update on training, methods and goal tracking. I figured this place/space would be where I can get feedback from the local community of climbers who have/are/formerly used the Rock Prodigy method that Mike and Mark have developed. Well That's all for now.

-Cheers

Seth

[jessebruni]

Congrats dude! I went to Thailand in January on my honeymoon as well and had a blast. Here are a few things I would recommend.

1.) Don't view it as a climbing trip. The limestone is pretty polished, and the weather is waaayyyy too hot for high performance. You probably will not climb the best you ever have for that reason alone. Enjoy the climbing for what it is, and enjoy everything else that makes that place awesome.

2.) Get used to being high up/exposed. I dunno what it is about climbing on the beach (assuming you go to Railay), but the fact that you can see out for miles around you makes it feel like you're way higher off the deck. Add in the slippery, insecure, feeling of polished limestone in 90+ degree weather and it feels even more sketchy. It's not sketchy, it's sport climbing, everything is safe, just make sure you're in a good headspace and not afraid of being out of control and taking a whipper before you go. It will make the climbing much more fun.

3.) If you go deep water soloing (and you should) use spray on sunblock. It's really really hard to get the greasyness of normal sunblock off your hands.

4.) Enjoy Thailand as a honeymoon destination. Do the touristy things, see the temples, ride the mopeds and the elephants, drink the fruity drinks and hangout on the beach, go snorkeling or scuba diving, just enjoy yourself. You'll make a lot of memories, but the ones that will stick with you are less likely to be the rock climbing memories, and more likely to be spending some quality time with an amazing person in an amazing location, not doing anything in particular, just enjoying yourselves.

[akbeard]

Well Coming up on the end of week one of my base fitness stage, As far as ARC'ing goes, it hasn't gone to plan quite yet, I got one set in last night but got to the gym too late, 2 X 5.9 and 4 X 5.10 with some good pump on the last couple routes. The wife smashed her big toe on a bolt halfway through her set and had to call it after that. Does anybody else find that ARC'ing in the gym to be difficult? Below is a synopsis of what I climbed this week.

10/1/16: OM 6 mod pitches: Seth Climbed two pitches of slab sport climbing 5.7 with Stefan, Justin, Mollie and Ben. Went to the gym and volume bouldered with my wife (Aly) for 45 min to an hour.
10/2/16: OM 6 moderate pitches: Aly climbed 6 pitches in the gym, 3 5.9, a 5.8, 5.10 and a 5.10-; Seth Climbed 5 pitches due to time constraint 5.9, 5.10-, 5.10, 5.10+ and a 5.11-
10/3/16: OAE: homework and didn't get to run, bike or lift weights; Aly (nurse) worked (WD)
10/4/16: ARC 2X20mins: Big paper due wednesday could not get to the gym; Aly WD
10/5/16: OAE: Climbed in the morning on lead Seth and Dan lead climbing session Climbed a 5.9, 5.10+, and a 5.10; Aly WD
10/6/2016: ARC 2X20mins: Aly ARC 13 mins one set: 5.9 x 2 and part of a 5.8, smashed left big toe on an empty bolt; Seth 20 mins one set, 5.9 x2 5.10- x4: missed the second set of ARC.
10/7/16: OAE: Climbed Lead in the morning with Dan, 1 X 5.9, 2 X 5.10- and 2X 5.10+. Felt pretty pumped at the end, one of the 5.10+ and 5.10- were overhung for 1/2 of the route and that is one of my weaknesses where I get pumped pretty quick.

This week's skill development is focusing on foot placement for both Aly and I, She is using the beginner drill of watching the foot untill it is on the jib/hold, and I am practicing 2-3 foot movements per hand movement (attempting to use only jibs/small footholds) route setters in the gym like to vary it up and not have small foot specific jibs during the whole route. The weather is supposed to be nice so I am going to try to get my OM up this weekend on real rock.

[akbeard]

After finishing week 2 I climbed way more than was prescribed in my schedule. A few 2/day climbs which felt pretty good to be honest. My fingers are not hurting as I thought they would. The caveat being that my callouses are needing to be sanded down and moisturized more than normal. I seem to have gotten to a point that lead climbing is getting me the extended time on the wall I have been needing. I'm finding that my biceps, quads, shoulders, lats and triceps are becoming sore at the end of the week. I also think that my endurance is also being compromised due to climbing so much but not enough to effect my climbing on top rope, but it was noticeable this morning while leading a 5.10+ and I was pretty pumped at the end of it. As far as skill development both Aly and I have been really focusing on foot placement and I have been working straight arms and breathing as well. I do find it hard to breathe calmly while on limit style routes (lots of sharp inhales and exhales with holding breath between moves).


10/08/2016: OM: Goal:7 Moderate Pitches, Skill Development
Actual: Aly: WD
Seth: OAE; biked upper winner creek with Scott. 15.5 miles, 3 hr 26min, 2656 vertical feet
10/09/2016: OM: 5 Moderate Pitches, Weather depending, ARG or real rock
Actual: Aly: top rope, 5.7 and 5.8 (Red Gate) and one 5.7 (Good Vibes Wall)
Seth: lead climb, 5.8 (Good Vibes Wall), 5.7 and 5.9 (Red Gate crag)
10/10/2016: OAE: Run/Weights
Actual: Moved ARC up one day 1 set of 20 mins Evening Climb
Seth: Morning 6-7:15 am bouldered on V0, v1x2, V3x2, V4x2, Lead Climbed 5.10 and 5.10+ on the bubble
Aly: Lunch workout 1 hour/3.4 miles at the gym,
Aly: Evening; 5.7, 5.7, 5.8, 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.9(till faliure and over time)
Seth: Evening; 5.9x2, 5.10-x2, 5.10x2, 5.9
10/11/2016: ARC: 2 X 20 mins
Aly: Bouldered for 40-60 mins did not keep track of problem grades
Seth: Bouldered for 40-60 mins did not keep track of problem grades
10/12/2016: OAE: Run/Weights
Actual: Aly: WD
Seth: Morning Climb; Climbed lead,5.9, 5.10- and hangdogged up a 5.11 one bolt shy of the top, powerful moves
Seth: 6-8:30, warmed up with V2 linked with a V0, v3, V4, lead Climbed 5.10+ took a rest after crux then sent to top, top roped 5.11, 5.11-,
10/13/2016: ARC: 2 X 20 mins
Actual: Switched to OAE
Seth: 4 mile trail run
Aly: WD
10/14/2016: OAE: Run/Weights?
Actual : Aly: WD
Seth:lead Climbed 5.9, 5.10-, 5.10+

The weather has been cooperating quite nicely this past week and hopefully will continue this weekend. I think that at the beginning of this week we will do some peak bagging and maybe some bouldering in the gym. There is a bouldering comp next weekend (10/22) and I am thinking about entering but I have not been bouldering much and am a bit hesatent to try due to me climbing so much lead lately. Well thats all for now

10/25/2016: LBC 31 to 29 down to 29 up, to 28 down, 35 up to38 down, 22up to 21 down to 21 up to 22 down, 12 up, 14up, 3 up, 55 up, Projecting 45, 60 and 20, Aly 5.7, 5.8, 5.10-, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10 (3/4 of the way up), Seth 5.9 x 2, 5.10-, 5.10+, 5.10, 5.11-, 5.11

10/26/2016: Lead climb morning with Dan, 5.10-, 5.10+, 5.11 halfway up

10/27/2016: fun climb with Jacob and Jeff, 5.10, 5.11-, 5.10, 5.10, 5.11-, 5.11-

10/28/2016: morning lead climb with Dan, 5.9, 5.11- 2/3 of the route, 5.10-

10/29/2016: with Aly, 5.11, 5.10, 5.12-(worked the route, stuck halfway on a crimp layback), 5.11+ (stuck halfway up on a big move from a large block to a crimp)

11/02/2016: morning lead climb with Dan, 5.9, 5.10(with a take), 5.11(with a take, vertical balance route), 5.10-

11/03/2016: fun climb with Jeff and Jacob top rope, Seth: 5.11-, 5.10+, 5.10-, 2x5.10- back to back.

11/04/2016: V0, V2, v3, V4, V4, V4, V5 project, Climb after work, 5.10 hangdogged, 5.11, 5.10+ quit at bolt 3

11/06/2016: V0, V0, V2, V3, V4, V5, V5 multiple attempts, V4 multiple attempts, V5 multiple attempts, V3, 5.11, 5.11 attempt(halfway), 5.10+, 5.11 redpoint

11/09/2016: lead climb with Dan, morning, 5.9, 5.10+ wrapped leg and took a small scary fall

11/10/2016: lead with Justin afternoon, 5.10, 5.10, 5.10-, 5.11, 5.10-

11/11/2016: 5.10, 5.11- overhung route, one fall and got to the last bolt, 5.11- balance route

11/15/2016: V0, v1 v2, v3, V4, v5, V4, v6 project

11/16/2016: lead morning climb with Dan, 5.10, 5.11-, 5.10+ (2/3)

11/17/2016: climb with Jeff, Jacob, Justin and Andrew: 5.10, 5.10, 5.11-, 5.11, 5.11+, 5.10

11/18/2016: V0, V1, V3, V2, v4, V3, V5 project, V5, v6 project

11/21/2016: V0-v1, V3-V2-V1, V4, V5project, V5 project, V3, V3, V4 project, V4

11/24/2016: Frame yoga (RLC) and tin can with Justin

11/26/2016: mock lead with Aly

11/27/2016 : mock lead with Aly, Seth, 5.10-, 5.11, Aly, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8, 5.9

11/28/2016: Yoga, norco sessions, HB1




Thanks for reading