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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 7, 2016 8:34:23 GMT -7
An 8-foot tall campus board seems like much more than enough. The distance between Rung 1 and Rung 9 on a Moon-spaced board is 176cm, or a bit over 69". If you wanted another 22cm above the 9th rung to act as a backstop, you'd still only come out to just below 78 inches, or 6.5 feet. But if you want to start training for 1-6-11, those 8 feet will be perfect.
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Post by Lundy on Sept 7, 2016 9:21:28 GMT -7
Erick,
Why does the top of the board have to be at approximately 14 feet? I would put the base of it around 5' and make it 9 rungs high (by 22 cm each) and give yourself a small bit of space on top.
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Post by climbnkev on Sept 21, 2016 21:28:05 GMT -7
Hi,
There are some basic flaws to your design that may or may not be a problem. The wall design itself is good, I would stick with 2x8's at that angle for anything over 10'. The big problem is the beam/post configuration. Posts are designed to support loads in compression, but your design is putting all of the load in shear. This means the beams are transferring the weight in a right angle to how posts are designed to bear weight. So the taller the wall, the longer the lever arm and thus the greater the shear forces transferred to the posts. What you really want is the wall to hang from the beam (either via joists hangers or strapping and the posts to support the weight of the beam and wall by being directly below them. I would personally use a minimum double 2x12 beam with two 6x6 posts one on eather side for a wall up to 12 feet. This is also assuming the wall is backed with corrugated roofing which would shed snow.
You want to notch the posts so you can attach the beam to the posts with through bolts (2) 1/2"x7" bolts on each side should do. Have fun building!
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Post by erick on Oct 10, 2016 18:35:46 GMT -7
Well here it is...   Sorry about the last photo, I could not get it straight. No holds yet but I am anxiously awaiting there arrival. In the first photo you can see the campus board on the left. It sits at 5' off the ground and is set on a 15 degree angle. Its long enough to have have 9 rungs on standard moon spacing but I will be putting half steps in-between. The main wall ended up being about 31.5 degrees (I was shooting for 30) and is 16' wide and currently has 12' of upward climbing terrain. Im still trying to decide what to do with the top unused portion. If I continue the 30ish degree angle I can extend the wall another 14", but I'm debating putting a steep (75 degree?) roof section. What you cannot see in the first photo is the cross brace I attached between the wall and the support post which has my RPTC hanging on an adjustable mount. Overall this was a MASSIVE project for my limited construction skills and I'm pretty happy with the results. The only time I ever had help was during the "barn raising' when I had about 8 people help me stand up the climbing wall section. Otherwise I had to get really creative with ways to get big pieces of lumber into place and trying to make it as square as possible even though its on a slanting patio. Its not ROCK SOLID yet, meaning if you are at the top of the wall and you violently shake like your having a seizer you can feel it wiggle. But testing it under climbing loads I have NOT noticed any movement at all. Ill be watching its stability carefully as I use it this winter. I am currently trying to name this our training center so if you have any cool ideas let me know. My preference is either something that matches our towns faux bavarian theme, or has religious/spiritual overtones like 'crimp cathedral'. If you live in Leavenworth and want to use this space, AND HELP ME SET, let me know. Or if you are passing through we would be happy to show you around. Eric Attachments:
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Post by Lundy on Oct 10, 2016 23:24:13 GMT -7
Looks sick, man! Great work!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 11, 2016 12:25:38 GMT -7
Wow man, that looks awesome! Great job. I recommend extending the 31deg wall all the way to the top. I have ceiling panels in my barn and they almost never get used. If they do get used, it's only for finishing jugs. Might as well put the finishing jugs on the 31deg wall. That will allow you to get by with smaller/cheaper holds, and also allow you the flexibility to include actually meaningful movement for the last move if you want to. Also, you can always add a ceiling panel even if you extend the 31 deg wall. It will just be at 90 deg instead of 75, which is arguably better anyway.
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Post by jlarson on Nov 6, 2016 9:49:00 GMT -7
Erik, that space looks awesome! Great job! Last summer went to Leavenworth with a buddy and everywhere we went we prefixed with das or der like "das Safeway" or "der subway". So for a name maybe das klettersboch or "the climbing boom"?
This thread has been super helpful and inspiring! I'm building a moon board under an sheet metal overhang on the side of my garage. The board will be entirely protected from getting rain or sun in temperate (no rain) southern california. Should I spend the money on stainless steel t nuts?
Also planning to marine spar the panels after I drill out my grid to protect the wood. Does that seem reasonable?
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Post by erick on Nov 7, 2016 8:03:56 GMT -7
I would not go do SS tnuts. I was told they are mainly for very humid areas. If you don't expect the tnuts to get wet you should be ok. SS tnuts are much softer metal and prone to striping out. I think the coating your looking at will work great. I just painted my panels with 2 coats of primer and at least 2 coats behr exterior paint. Make sure you coat the edges very well! I have over 8 coats of primer/paint on the edges since if they get wet they will peak apart. I am so in love with my training space which my wife and I are calling the Chalet Training Center. It's so great to be outside trying while the rain is pouring down all around. Now that everything is up and running I'll post some pics of it full of holds.
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Post by erick on Nov 8, 2016 15:55:03 GMT -7
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 8, 2016 16:06:26 GMT -7
I like the Christmas lights, nice touch.
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Post by jlarson on Aug 7, 2020 8:58:42 GMT -7
I would not go do SS tnuts. I was told they are mainly for very humid areas. If you don't expect the tnuts to get wet you should be ok. SS tnuts are much softer metal and prone to striping out. I think the coating your looking at will work great. I just painted my panels with 2 coats of primer and at least 2 coats behr exterior paint. Make sure you coat the edges very well! I have over 8 coats of primer/paint on the edges since if they get wet they will peak apart. Just some follow up after building an outdoor board in the SF Bay area (pretty humid/foggy in the mornings). I used it for three years while in school then disassembled it.
-After 3 years my galvanized T nuts/bolts are lightly rusted but I was able to disassemble everything without any fuss. Stainless steel for outdoor walls would have been expensive overkill.
-Between the hammer in T-nuts or the three screw T-nuts, the screw in T-nuts are much better long term.
-Definitely paint/coat the panels and all wood. I missed a couple spots and those areas are trying to delaminate on me. Do the job right up front and you won't have to worry about it for a very long time.
-Having a homeboard is absolutely one of the best investments in my climbing first for the week in week out consistency, then for the ability to make much harder/more realistic problems for outdoor climbing.
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Post by Globalmed Supplies on Jun 28, 2022 0:34:23 GMT -7
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