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Post by srossabi42 on Apr 14, 2017 8:26:48 GMT -7
i also feel as though the forearm pump clock starts ticking as soon as i pull on to a steep route, but i think this is because i have a hard time recovering on good holds in steep terrain, obviously i need to spend more time at places like the red!
i find it easier to stay in "the zone" mentally when i climb quickly. i'm not sure if this is because you are encountering moves more quickly and dont have time to think of anything else or if it is because you dont have to stay focused for as long as if you climbed the route slowly, probably a combination of both
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Post by climber511 on Apr 14, 2017 10:45:32 GMT -7
Having been mostly a trad climber all these years - sport "feels" fast to me. I know I need to move more fluidly and hesitate less also but "clip - clip" sure is faster than "fiddle - fiddle - clip clip. . I feel I need to hesitate less between moves than more so than make the move itself faster. But maybe a little bit of each too.
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Post by jonfrisby on Apr 15, 2017 7:21:56 GMT -7
Ted, you bring up an important tactical point that the RCTM mentions. There's a sidebar about Mike sending Transworld Depravity, which seems to have a bunch of 5.12 (redriverclimbing says 12c) to the crux section. Mike chose to ARC up this section by increasing base fitness to the required level, rather than using lower end PE in the bottom and leaving less in the tank for the crux (therefore requiring more power to send the crux than in the tactic Mike chose). So to me, your speed through moderate sections should be be a function of knowing where your lactic threshold is, and if the climbing is below this, climb slow and recover, while if the climbing is just above your threshold, get moving and hopefully keep enough for whatever is above.
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Post by daustin on Apr 24, 2017 15:56:35 GMT -7
Thought you all might be interested in a great illustration of climbing with speed. This is from the "hardest indoor route in the world" at some BD office in Europe. First, watch Patxi climb starting at about 9:30, then watch Ondra starting at about 18:00. www.epictv.com/video/climbing/adam-ondra-sets-new-highpoint-worlds-toughest-indoor-routeFor me personally, I think I'm pretty good at getting beta wired, and therefore I'm able to climb pretty quickly on RP attempts. I actually think this is one of my strengths relative to my actual physical fitness, which isn't terrible but also nothing special. For me, part of the game plan for any hard RP is breaking down the route into sections separated by rests. Once I'm climbing, I'm basically trying to get from rest to rest as quickly as possible.
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