Post by tedwelser on Jul 23, 2016 15:10:51 GMT -7
I wrote a post about our Moon^Kilter board. When we get the next 50 Kilter holds on it (and ideally some technical feet as well) it will be nearly perfect for limit problems as well as good for PE and some endurance/warm up as well. If you are considering a Moonboard for your home training set up (10ft ceiling minimum), I would argue that the right sets of supplementary holds make it many times more valuable than the standard Moonboard alone, and without degrading the value of the standard problems. (No problems so far with crowding or "blocked shots")
The hold diversity of the Moon grips is actually pretty narrow and limited, so I am excited to think about the holds that we will be able to integrate for the Red group with another 4-6 sets to consider.
I mentioned Beta Fish (home gym location of the hybrid board) before, but I wrote up this better description and wanted to share it. boulderingathenscounty.blogspot.com/2016/07/building-moonkilter-hybrid-board.html
Also, I plan to add a second set of the Slugs (great, realistic sloping ledges or sidepulls), and of adding Winter Large 2, a good basic set of compact jugs. Then I will move the Noah Small 5's, a challenging 10 hold set to the Red group. That would leave 55 holds in the Blue group, and 40-50 additional holds to add to the Red group this fall. The aim is to have them up and in place before fall power season, or September.
That said, if you could pick any 40 holds from Kilter to put on a 40 degree wall, which would you pick?
Remember that the main constraint is to keep holds compact while adding functional diversity.
Following are some options that I am looking at right now, to add up to 50 or 60 holds.
Noah small 5 (the link name looks wrong, but these are the correct holds, the ones we already have)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/noah/products/noah-small-6-rounded-crimps?variant=2883491201
Noah small 2 steep incuts (totally like more-comfortable versions of Hueco flake crimps*)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/small/products/noah-small-2-steep-wall-incuts?variant=2492406273
Will's Granite Small 1 (nice variation within the set)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/small/products/wills-granite-small-2-crimpers?variant=2964238145
Noah Medium 6, steep slots (cool precision required)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/medium/products/noah-medium-6-steep-slots?variant=2575667457
Noah Medium 18, Flat seams (tough! precision necessary, requires adjustment*)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/medium/products/noah-medium-18-flat-seams?variant=2949912001
Winter Medium 6, Puffy Incuts (solid holds for mid grade problems)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/winter/products/winter-medium-6-puffy-incuts?variant=2589280257
Will’s Granite Large 3: Granite pinches: (How difficult on a 40 degree wall?*)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/granite/products/wills-granite-large-3-pinches?variant=3020472705
This range is pretty hard in general, and I should probably term them the "hard" rather than medium set, since we could easily populate another 50 holds in the medium positive range. I put stars next to the ones that I thought bring the greatest additions to the diversity in hold types.
The hold diversity of the Moon grips is actually pretty narrow and limited, so I am excited to think about the holds that we will be able to integrate for the Red group with another 4-6 sets to consider.
I mentioned Beta Fish (home gym location of the hybrid board) before, but I wrote up this better description and wanted to share it. boulderingathenscounty.blogspot.com/2016/07/building-moonkilter-hybrid-board.html
Also, I plan to add a second set of the Slugs (great, realistic sloping ledges or sidepulls), and of adding Winter Large 2, a good basic set of compact jugs. Then I will move the Noah Small 5's, a challenging 10 hold set to the Red group. That would leave 55 holds in the Blue group, and 40-50 additional holds to add to the Red group this fall. The aim is to have them up and in place before fall power season, or September.
That said, if you could pick any 40 holds from Kilter to put on a 40 degree wall, which would you pick?
Remember that the main constraint is to keep holds compact while adding functional diversity.
Following are some options that I am looking at right now, to add up to 50 or 60 holds.
Noah small 5 (the link name looks wrong, but these are the correct holds, the ones we already have)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/noah/products/noah-small-6-rounded-crimps?variant=2883491201
Noah small 2 steep incuts (totally like more-comfortable versions of Hueco flake crimps*)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/small/products/noah-small-2-steep-wall-incuts?variant=2492406273
Will's Granite Small 1 (nice variation within the set)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/small/products/wills-granite-small-2-crimpers?variant=2964238145
Noah Medium 6, steep slots (cool precision required)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/medium/products/noah-medium-6-steep-slots?variant=2575667457
Noah Medium 18, Flat seams (tough! precision necessary, requires adjustment*)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/medium/products/noah-medium-18-flat-seams?variant=2949912001
Winter Medium 6, Puffy Incuts (solid holds for mid grade problems)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/winter/products/winter-medium-6-puffy-incuts?variant=2589280257
Will’s Granite Large 3: Granite pinches: (How difficult on a 40 degree wall?*)
kilter-grips.myshopify.com/collections/granite/products/wills-granite-large-3-pinches?variant=3020472705
This range is pretty hard in general, and I should probably term them the "hard" rather than medium set, since we could easily populate another 50 holds in the medium positive range. I put stars next to the ones that I thought bring the greatest additions to the diversity in hold types.