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Post by Chris W on Jul 18, 2016 18:03:17 GMT -7
I've spent the last two and a half months recovering from surgery, rehabbing my body, and thinking. I've got so many thoughts in my head I'd like to discus on the forum it's a bit daunting. I've considered starting a whole thread devoted solely to my selfish pursuit and plan, but I may try to break my thoughts into topics that may actually be useful to other people. I've been planning an overhaul of my training. Since the RCTM came out, I've worked very hard and gone from flailing on 5.11a to redpointing 5.12 b/c. Now I want to get better.
Ultimately, I need to raise my MSS. My long term goal (for now) is to be able to show up at any crag and climb any 5.12 (sport) within 1-3 tries. A daunting task, when you consider all the styles of climbing and types of rock.
Regarding ARC ability, when I started I could barely hang on the largest jugs on my 15 degree wall for 10 minutes at a time. Fast forward two years, and I just completed an entire 20 min set on my 35 degree wall (and tore the hell out of my skin doing it).
1) Should I continue to ARC on my 35 wall?
The sets are brutal, I'm using the largest holds, and can barely make it 15-20 minutes before pumping off and jumping to the 15. This is the same way I started on the 15 wall, and over two years moved up to using smaller holds and only resting on jugs. The same pattern may repeat itself on the 35, if given the chance.
2) Will ARCing on the 35 wall be detrimental in terms of specificity?
Local rock is closer to 10-15 degrees and the holds are smaller. I am trying, however, to send some very steep 12a's at the New River Gorge this fall. Steep rock is a major weakness, physically and mentally, and I am trying to improve upon this weekness.
3) Will ARCing this way improve my overall and long term MSS?
I was concerned that ARC ability wouldn't transfer from one season to the next, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Each season, I can ARC stronger and longer and harder. Hard to say if this is from increased overall finger strength or a true carryover of ARC ability. |
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Post by brendann on Jul 19, 2016 8:18:20 GMT -7
1) Should I continue to ARC on my 35 wall?
2) Will ARCing on the 35 wall be detrimental in terms of specificity?
3) Will ARCing this way improve my overall and long term MSS?
1.) Yes, it will get easier and it will lead to better fitness. 2.) No, you want to ARC more steeply than your goals to overcompensate. 3.) Yes. Fitness builds over multiple seasons. |
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Post by Chris W on Jul 19, 2016 17:43:35 GMT -7
Brendan, what have your experiences been ARCing long term and MSS improvement? Any concrete examples?
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Post by brendann on Jul 19, 2016 21:12:17 GMT -7
ARCing in 6 month cycles for 7 years. Started at 5.9+ and peaked at 5.12b. Each cycle it has been quicker to get to peak. Now I can start on the 45 rather than having to work up to it over weeks. I now need to increase strength to increase peak ARC.
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Post by Chris W on Jul 21, 2016 20:51:52 GMT -7
Do you feel like this improvement is directly related to increased ARC training intensity, or do you feel like there are other significant contributing factors?
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Post by brendann on Jul 22, 2016 9:23:35 GMT -7
Yes, increasing my ARC intensity was the most beneficial for increasing my MSS. Power-Endurance gains seem to be more fleeting and more directly tied to maximum strength.
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Post by tedwelser on Jul 22, 2016 19:01:16 GMT -7
I've spent the last two and a half months recovering from surgery, rehabbing my body, and thinking. I've got so many thoughts in my head I'd like to discus on the forum it's a bit daunting. I've considered starting a whole thread devoted solely to my selfish pursuit and plan, but I may try to break my thoughts into topics that may actually be useful to other people. I've been planning an overhaul of my training. Since the RCTM came out, I've worked very hard and gone from flailing on 5.11a to redpointing 5.12 b/c. Now I want to get better.
Ultimately, I need to raise my MSS. My long term goal (for now) is to be able to show up at any crag and climb any 5.12 (sport) within 1-3 tries. A daunting task, when you consider all the styles of climbing and types of rock.
Regarding ARC ability, when I started I could barely hang on the largest jugs on my 15 degree wall for 10 minutes at a time. Fast forward two years, and I just completed an entire 20 min set on my 35 degree wall (and tore the hell out of my skin doing it).
1) Should I continue to ARC on my 35 wall?
The sets are brutal, I'm using the largest holds, and can barely make it 15-20 minutes before pumping off and jumping to the 15. This is the same way I started on the 15 wall, and over two years moved up to using smaller holds and only resting on jugs. The same pattern may repeat itself on the 35, if given the chance.
2) Will ARCing on the 35 wall be detrimental in terms of specificity?
Local rock is closer to 10-15 degrees and the holds are smaller. I am trying, however, to send some very steep 12a's at the New River Gorge this fall. Steep rock is a major weakness, physically and mentally, and I am trying to improve upon this weekness.
3) Will ARCing this way improve my overall and long term MSS?
I was concerned that ARC ability wouldn't transfer from one season to the next, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Each season, I can ARC stronger and longer and harder. Hard to say if this is from increased overall finger strength or a true carryover of ARC ability. Hey Chris- We really should try to climb together, since we both climb steep routes at the New and Red. We come from opposite sides of the steep preference curve, so I would say that non-steep rock is my weakness. I cannot think of any non-steep routes that I have done recently harder than 10d. 1.-- yes. A single 35 plane is steep for ARC-ing, but I would say that it really just depends on having the hold variety to make it work. The majority of my home wall is 30 or steeper, and that is where I ARC, though the wall is pretty 3-D, so you can make it feel more or less steep by the footholds. However, we routinely throw a couple 25 foot horizontal roof runs into our ARCs without ruining our specificity. In terms of skin pain, the AC is helping with that, and I go out of my way to prevent my hands from sliding on the jugs lest my skin get too painful. 2. No. On a rare foray into less than vert terrain (Diamond in the Rough) I found that my HB workouts were the real source of endurance, since I had most weight on my feet. So in 85 degree land, I feel like the lack of analog ARC work was not an issue, since I could shake and get micro rests on nearly every hold on the route. The place you really need endurance is on the steep terrain anyways. At least, in the eastern US. We just dont have anything like full heinous or darkness at noon to test your small hold / vert endurance without letup for 140 feet. 3. For steep stuff at the New and Red I feel as though deep hold resting capacity is more important that ARC, assuming you have your PE and strength up. Usually there are rests that are so much better and deeper than the standard hold on a route that you can take advantage and get a great deal back and really de-pump. When the routes lack those holds is when you need the steep ARC capacity, which you will be training on your steep ARC. I think ARC builds and builds across seasons as long as you keep your climbing and training volume up and consistent. Anyways, good luck with your routes at the New, are you thinking of things like Psycho Wrangler, Narcissus, Tobacco Road, Yowsah, Lost Souls? |
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