Interview with Jerry Moffatt

[MarkAnderson]

Mark Dixon pointed me to this entertaining interview with Jerry Moffatt.  He discusses the construction of the original campus board, the importance of power in climbing, and how to train for it.  There is also an awesome training montage with him and Ben Moon at the end.

This helps illustrate why I'm always quoting and talking about Jerry Moffatt.  He was the man--so far ahead of his time.

[tedwelser]

Apr 27, 2016 18:14:33 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

Mark Dixon pointed me to this entertaining interview with Jerry Moffatt.  He discusses the construction of the original campus board, the importance of power in climbing, and how to train for it.  There is also an awesome training montage with him and Ben Moon at the end.

This helps illustrate why I'm always quoting and talking about Jerry Moffatt.  He was the man--so far ahead of his time.

I really enjoyed this interview / video footage as well.  It is interesting to think about how campus boards were earlier than home walls and how Gullich was more narrowly focused in his training (in terms of campusing) while Jerry was innovating on types of holds on the campus board. 

[cirquebound]

Thanks for the Video!

Does anyone know of a compilation of his ascents? I have been looking but alas no luck

[MarkAnderson]

His book Revelations has a pretty comprehensive list (many pages long) at the back of the book.

[cirquebound]

Perfect!!!

Ill have a look tonight !

[mclay]

Very interesting interview. Could someone elaborate on his comment, "When my power went up, my endurance went up." I took this to refer to Power-Endurance as it leads into a Performance Peak. I think the context in the interview was Moffatt training for a trip to Font. As a newbie to training I can't see the connection between Power and Base Endurance, but these guys were already climbing at an elite level, hence he's referring to PE?

[MarkAnderson]

He's pretty loose/vague with his terminology, but I think he's alluding to the common theory that increasing your strength provides a complimentary increase in endurance (that is, if you increase your strength by 20%, then a move that once required 80% of your strength, may now only require ~65% of your strength, and is therefore easier to endure). Since true power is probably mutually exclusive to pure endurance, I would have to assume that he is indeed referring to power endurance in this particular case. So by campusing more, upping his power, his ability to link 10-20 moves also improved (since each of those moves felt a bit easier than they did before).

[soggybiscuits]

May 1, 2016 10:59:23 GMT -7 tedwelser said:

Apr 27, 2016 18:14:33 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

Mark Dixon pointed me to this entertaining interview with Jerry Moffatt.  He discusses the construction of the original campus board, the importance of power in climbing, and how to train for it.  There is also an awesome training montage with him and Ben Moon at the end.

This helps illustrate why I'm always quoting and talking about Jerry Moffatt.  He was the man--so far ahead of his time.

I really enjoyed this interview / video footage as well.  It is interesting to think about how campus boards were earlier than home walls and how Gullich was more narrowly focused in his training (in terms of campusing) while Jerry was innovating on types of holds on the campus board. 

I find Jerry so inspirational. The level of climbing he achieved, where he took his own level and that of everyone else is inspirational. His level of psyche was so high and kept him at the top of his game for a good few years. I love the fact that he was so open about training and spent competitions talking to other climbers about how they trained and sharing what i guess we'd call 'training beta'. This is vid interview is ace. As he says himself in the latest Megos videos now he's of the generation who talks while the younger generation climb. Not sure I 100% agree with that but I'm happy to listen to him talk and read his publications!