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Post by tetrault on Jun 17, 2017 5:13:27 GMT -7
See here for an expert opinion on the subject. Limit Bouldering
Often, the difference between sending and failing seems to come down to somehow turning the "belief" switch on in my brain. And, I would not expect to be able to send it again on a whim. The 30-40min of "hard" bouldering might end up sapping my power and watering down my LB session, but everyone is different.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 19, 2017 14:47:23 GMT -7
Ya, I think 3 LB problems in one session is too much. Also, at this point you should just be trying to do the individual moves. Ideally there are one or two moves that are particularly cruxy and you can spend most of your effort on those key moves, breaking them down into digestible pieces whenever possible (such as doing the move with easier/better footholds, or from an easier starting position, or with a power-spot, or a combination of cheats, and then working up to doing the move properly).
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