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Post by majorsick on Jan 5, 2016 10:52:34 GMT -7
I've got 7 weeks before a 4 day trip to Smith Rock. My goal routes are Latin Lover, Dreamin' and Magic Light. I finished a 10 session Hangboard segment just before the holidays, and haven't done anything organized since. Any suggestions on how best to structure a plan to get myself ready? My thought process is that it'd make sense to skip ARC and maybe even Strength. Or perhaps do a very abbreviated HB segment before jumping into Power and PE.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 5, 2016 13:17:47 GMT -7
It seems like if you just recently stopped hangboarding you shouldn't need to do very much (if any) more. There reason to do some more would be that 7 weeks is kind of a lot of time to "kill" on Power and PE for a 4 day trip. When exactly did you last hangboard, and what exactly have you done since?
As for your goal routes--great choices! They are somewhat varied though (from a "how should I train" perspective). Magic Light (assuming we're talking about one of the 5.12 versions) is basically super long with all the business at the top. It will be like ARCing for 80 feet to reach some hard boulder problems. Dreamin is essentially the opposite--the hardest moves are right off the ground, bouldering on pockets over a roof to you reach a looong slab where you are basically ARCing (except for a nice sting in the tail). Latin Lover is in the middle of the other two--70-ish feet of sustained vertical edging with not much rest. So I think you want have a good bit of endurance for all those routes. Keep in mind that Dreamin' is fairly runout and many people struggle with that aspect of it.
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Post by majorsick on Jan 5, 2016 13:50:22 GMT -7
I did my last hangboard workout on Dec 23, and have done some casual climbing in my garage and at the gym with friends and family that I don't see too often.
Just so you know the tools at my disposal - great steep homewall, campus/hangboards, and a gym with many 65' vert routes (repurposed grain silos).
Edit - BTW I am STILL pain free after the rehab you guided me through last summer!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 5, 2016 14:25:24 GMT -7
Ok, so I would probably do something like 2 weeks of Hangboarding, starting out fairly aggressively (resistance-wise) since you just stopped 2 weeks ago. Then I would do 2-3 weeks of power followed by 2-3 weeks of PE, with an emphasis on Hi rep/low intensity. I would try to lead as much as possible during this time, and obviously get outside if weather permits.
Edit to add: This...
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