Am I ready to move to the intermediate?

[Tom]

Hi I could use some advice. I’ve just finished my 4th hangboard cycle. I had some very nice gains this year, including red pointing a route I’ve been looking at for ~2 years. I’m certain that training the wide pinch in particular was key in my completing this route.





So I’ve done 4 cycles on the beginner scheme, and I’m wondering if I should move to the intermediate, or stay on the beginner. Any other thoughts after looking at the workout or the numbers and times? For a bit more background I primarily climb traditional routes in the 5.9 – 5.10 c range on granite. I sport climb and boulder from time to time, but the climbs I’m really excited about are on cannon and cathedral:


www.mountainproject.com/v/vmc-direct-direct/106028120





Here is where I ended up after workout #10 this week (these are all ~5 lbs better than the last workout of my last season):


All sets – 10 sec on, 5 sec off, 6 reps. 3 min rest between





Warm up jug – bodyweight


Large Edge (4 fingers): -25 lbs. failed on 6th rep with 3 seconds left (Progressed 15 lbs during phase)





Wide Pinch: -45 lbs. Failed in 5th rep with 4 seconds left (Progressed 20 lbs during phase)





Middle – Ring – Pinky: -55 lbs. Failed in 5th rep with 3 seconds left (Progressed 10 lbs during phase)





Index – Middle – Ring: -15 lbs. barely completed last rep (Progressed 25 lbs during phase)





Small edge, 4 fingers: -35 lbs. Failed in 4th rep with 3 seconds left (Progressed 10 lbs during phase)





Sloper: -35 lbs. Failed in 5th rep with 3 seconds left (Progressed 15 lbs during phase)



Thanks,
Tom

[MarkAnderson]

Tom,

Considering the resistance you've been using, and especially the fact that your goals are more trad-oriented, I would recommend sticking with the Beginner workout for a while longer. I think the 10/5 duty cycle is more like what you might experience in a trad climb at your level than 7/3. That said, it's been a long time since I transitioned from 10/5 to 7/3, so maybe somebody whose done it more recently would have a different recommendation.

Mark

[Tom]

Jan 1, 2016 17:38:16 GMT -7 MarkAnderson said:

Tom,

Considering the resistance you've been using, and especially the fact that your goals are more trad-oriented, I would recommend sticking with the Beginner workout for a while longer. I think the 10/5 duty cycle is more like what you might experience in a trad climb at your level than 7/3. That said, it's been a long time since I transitioned from 10/5 to 7/3, so maybe somebody whose done it more recently would have a different recommendation.

Mark

Hi Mark, thanks for the feedback.  What you're saying on 10 / 5 vs 7 / 3 makes alot of sense.  even at the harder grades, a gear protected route will probably resembe the 10 / 5 - thanks!

What about the overall scheme - should i stick with the beginner scheme of 7 grips, one set each, or something more like 5 or 6 grips, 2 sets each?

Thanks again!

[MarkAnderson]

I could see going to a 2 (or even 3) set scheme at some point in the future, but you're still pretty new to this so I would stick with what you're doing for another couple cycles.

[Tom]

That' exactly the feedback I needed - thanks again!

[tango]

Just curious, Mark, as to what criteria you use when judging readiness to move up to the Intermediate workout from the Beginner? Is it purely the amount of resistance being used, the number of cycles completed, some mixture of a few points?

[MarkAnderson]

I don't really have criteria, but I try to consider the experience and goals of the climber, then their training experience level. You want to consider:

-Does it make more sense to favor finger strength training or skill development? The more advanced workouts are more time-consuming, leaving less time for ARCing, OM, etc.

-Does the climber have the wisdom to listen to their body during intense training? Wisdom comes from training experience, and the more advanced workouts are more "threatening" so the climber needs to have some idea of how hard they can safely push.

-Do the climber's goals indicate one protocol over another? Specifically, trad versus sport vs bouldering, multipitch vs single pitch.