Post by chrisbecker on Dec 25, 2015 16:25:06 GMT -7
Hi,
First of all, thank you Mark and Mike for your great book and thank you everyone else for shaping this great forum that I've been stalking for a while now. The question that I would like to discuss is how to deal with having more time before the next performance phase than what is scheduled in the program.
I've started getting back into climbing this fall when I ended a 9 months near-complete lay-off by finally extending my garage and building a bouldering wall. After a couple months of just bouldering I decided that I wanted to get properly into training, ordered the Training Manual and started my Base Phase end of November.
I'm living in the very rainy south-west of Norway and routes here often don't dry up before April (or ever...) so there is most likely no point in peaking before that. Right now I think it would be best to start my PE Phase by the end of week 13 and climb through April and May. If I extend my Base Phase until NYE that leaves me with 13 weeks for strength and power (assuming that I don't die of boredom from ARCing on my tiny vertical section during the last workouts) and I am not sure how to best adjust the schedule for these phases to last such a long period.
The routes here are mostly between vertical and 20 degree overhanging, usually shorter than 70 feet and quite bouldery. I've climbed up to 12c before and returning to that level is my goal for the coming season. I am 6'8" tall and therefore carry way too much weight around with me. As a result of that, finger strength is definitely the limiting factor for my climbing. I was therefore thinking about extending the strength phase to 9 weeks or so and including regular ARC and hard bouldering sessions in between the hangboarding. I could then continue with 4 weeks of power before starting the PE Phase. Does that sound sensible to you or how would you adjust your program in my situation?
Thanks,
Chris
First of all, thank you Mark and Mike for your great book and thank you everyone else for shaping this great forum that I've been stalking for a while now. The question that I would like to discuss is how to deal with having more time before the next performance phase than what is scheduled in the program.
I've started getting back into climbing this fall when I ended a 9 months near-complete lay-off by finally extending my garage and building a bouldering wall. After a couple months of just bouldering I decided that I wanted to get properly into training, ordered the Training Manual and started my Base Phase end of November.
I'm living in the very rainy south-west of Norway and routes here often don't dry up before April (or ever...) so there is most likely no point in peaking before that. Right now I think it would be best to start my PE Phase by the end of week 13 and climb through April and May. If I extend my Base Phase until NYE that leaves me with 13 weeks for strength and power (assuming that I don't die of boredom from ARCing on my tiny vertical section during the last workouts) and I am not sure how to best adjust the schedule for these phases to last such a long period.
The routes here are mostly between vertical and 20 degree overhanging, usually shorter than 70 feet and quite bouldery. I've climbed up to 12c before and returning to that level is my goal for the coming season. I am 6'8" tall and therefore carry way too much weight around with me. As a result of that, finger strength is definitely the limiting factor for my climbing. I was therefore thinking about extending the strength phase to 9 weeks or so and including regular ARC and hard bouldering sessions in between the hangboarding. I could then continue with 4 weeks of power before starting the PE Phase. Does that sound sensible to you or how would you adjust your program in my situation?
Thanks,
Chris
