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Post by avaserfi on Dec 11, 2015 18:11:56 GMT -7
Those of you that primarily train on a steep woody (around 30 degrees). How do you train the later part of your PE phase when it comes to route intervals? What sort of adjustments do you make?
I've started creating circuits on my woody and placed bolt hangers to practice clipping and hanging draws. Even though it lacks specificity I've figured something is better than nothing.
Any other ideas?
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Post by Chris W on Dec 11, 2015 18:22:56 GMT -7
Are your goal routes around 30 degrees?
I used long LBC's (4+ minutes) to train for an endurance route this spring. I thought about hanging draws from my harness and trailing a 6 foot piece of rope, but never did. I settled for purposefully NOT chalking until I reached specific points, primarily to train myself away from my chalking security blanket. The tactic worked quite well for me. If I finished my LBC before 4 minutes was up, I'd cycle through it again until I pumped off or the timer beeped.
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Post by avaserfi on Dec 11, 2015 18:24:52 GMT -7
Are your goal routes around 30 degrees? I used long LBC's (4+ minutes) to train for an endurance route this spring. I thought about hanging draws from my harness and trailing a 6 foot piece of rope, but never did. I settled for purposefully NOT chalking until I reached specific points, primarily to train myself away from my chalking security blanket. The tactic worked quite well for me. If I finished my LBC before 4 minutes was up, I'd cycle through it again until I pumped off or the timer beeped. A couple goal routes are quite steep with sections close to 30 degrees, but most are not. |
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Post by Chris W on Dec 11, 2015 18:35:33 GMT -7
I'm a bit fortunate (spoiled, neurotic) because I have several angles in my barn to choose from. I have a vertical, 15 degree and 35 degree wall. I'm not sure if I would be able to stay on my 35 for a full 4 minutes (last time I tried was a little over a year ago). If that's all I had to work with, I would probably either build a kick plate for my feet on the ground to "lessen" the angle or place pieces of tape on the floor to put my toes on as if they were foot holds.
My home crag is mostly in the 10-15 degree range, so that's where I do most of my LBC's and ARC sets. I do hard boulder problems on the 35
I suppose you could also set a big knee bar or something at the end of the LBC to give you a chance to recover to complete the "route interval" time. |
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Post by Lundy on Dec 11, 2015 21:04:18 GMT -7
I struggle with this as well, as I only have a 45. I don't really do much differently, though. I just build a 30-40 move PE circuit, one that I usually can't complete for my first one or two PE workouts. Once I start completing it, I reduce the rest - straight out of the book. One of the ways I tried to make it more "route-like" this last training cycle was to set about 20 moves, pretty hard, into a decent rest, hang there for a while, then finish another 20 moves. It's not the same as climbing a route, but it definitely felt more like it than blasting through a PE circuit without it.
You might want to try to build your PE circuit to emulate what your target route is, with roughly the same number of moves of the same difficulty between different rests. If your target routes are also steep, this specificity in training should be really helpful.
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Post by avaserfi on Dec 20, 2015 13:09:22 GMT -7
Sounds like the best option is just set longer PE routes on the steep with rest opportunities. I'll give it a go and see how it works for me.
Right now I have a 20 move circuit that I'm using for my LBC and it seems to be working well. Pretty hard, but doable. Perhaps, I'll try to extend it and add in some interesting rest positions.
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