Weird schedule coming up - help please?!

[jonfrisby]

Hi guys I just finished fall season and have some weirdness coming up. Hoping to get some tips on scheduling training.
Now - Dec 14 (train at my normal gym)
Dec 17-20 (RRG)
Dec 22-Jan 14 (train, but will be in a combination of a weird Indiana gym and a Singapore gym TBD so I think hang boarding here would be fruitless due to lack of regularity)
Jan 16-26 (Tonsai/Railay Thailand)
Jan 28-mid-March (train at normal gym) [might go to Hueco for the Rodeo Feb 14-16ish)
Mid-March (5 days somewhere - probably RRG)
Late March - mid-May (train at normal gym)

May-September: massive trip (1 week at NRG, 1-1.5 months Rifle, 1 month Wild Iris/Sinks, 1 week southern Norway climbing, 1+ month Squamish)

I'm thinking that I can start a pretty normal cycle in the end of January, and given the amount of outdoor climbing I'll be doing in the summer, I will probably focus pretty heavily on strength and power as I will most likely naturally pick up PE and endurance on the rock. I currently am a bit stronger/more powerful than endurance/PE. I am thinking of doing some sort of high-low approach through January, doing a normal cycle, then doing a bit of hang boarding and power work before leaving in May. Thoughts?

[MarkAnderson]

Ya, I would start by planning your year around the summer. Back out your optimal training for that, and decide what you have to work with for Spring. It seems likely that you could do a cycle starting late January, but the performance phase would be super short. If you're ok with that, then train for your March week at the Red/wherever.

For the next two months, I would say there's a good chance the Red in late December will be a disaster, so don't plan around that. Thailand in January will be awesome, so focus on getting the most out of that. The hard climbing there tends to be bouldery and not especially sustained. There are some pumpy routes at Tonsai but they are in the High Intensity/Low Duration range of PE (like no more than 20 hand moves). I would probably do a short BF Phase and Strength Phase starting now, and then a mix of Power and PE in the 2-3 weeks leading up to your trip.

[jonfrisby]

Thanks Mark. This first trip, and to some extent second trip to the Red is pretty relaxed. I'd like to finish off Infectious (2 hang in mid-80s heat) but don't have a ton of goals otherwise, so you're right that I should focus on Thailand/summer to the detriment of minor trips