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Post by Getting Started on Sept 2, 2015 10:01:13 GMT -7
Hi everyone,
I am just getting started with the Rock Prodigy training. My focus right now is on bouldering and improving my competition climbing so I am following the bouldering schedule provided towards the back of the book.
I am not understanding the difference between skill acquisition and skill practice during the base fitness phase. How would these exercises differ?
Additionally, what would supplementary exercises entail during the strength phase?
Thanks in advance for the insight,
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Post by jessebruni on Sept 2, 2015 12:03:57 GMT -7
Skill acquisition = "I've never done a drop-knee before. Need to learn how"
Skill Practice = "I know how to do a drop-knee, but I need to practice it so I can deploy it efficiently and only when necessary on route"
Supplemental exercises during strength phase are the same as in every other phase. Pick the ones that you want to work on, or are a weakness and adjust the sets and reps so that it matches the strength protocol (high weight, moderate number of reps).
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Post by Getting Started on Sept 2, 2015 12:27:07 GMT -7
Wonderful! Thank you so much!
One other question - I'm not able to set up a training area at home and the training area at my gym is great but isn't set up for resistance training. Any suggestions?
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Post by jessebruni on Sept 2, 2015 12:29:28 GMT -7
Resistance training? You mean weights? If you have a climbing gym you can do pull ups, lock-off-laps, and one arm inverted rows in there (do these in a cave on a jug). Otherwise, it might not be a terrible idea to just buy some dumbells.
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Post by Getting Started on Sept 2, 2015 12:45:41 GMT -7
Perhaps I used the wrong word, I meant resistance in regards to counter weight. For example, I can do 8 full pullups, but on a second set I can barely do half of that number. I need some weight taken off so I can do more reps without losing all of my power. Same idea with hangboard routines. My grip strength when it comes to deadhanging needs quite a bit of work.
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Post by jessebruni on Sept 2, 2015 12:59:17 GMT -7
Ah, well pulley's and weights are ideal. One thing you may be able to do is use slings and carabiners to hang pulleys under the hangboard at the gym (if you can't set one up at home). Then you can use the pulley's like normal. If not you can always use the less reliable foot-on-a-chair method.
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Post by Chris W on Sept 2, 2015 17:36:29 GMT -7
I think it's really helpful to have a hangboard at home.
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