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Post by joev9 on Jun 9, 2015 6:41:12 GMT -7
So, last night I was on HB8 of 10 and grip #3, 2 finger MR, absolutely sucked. It was at PR weight so I knew it was going to be hard, but I actually failed on set #1. I continued with Sets #2 and #3 but pretty much punted them (failed on 5th rep Set #2 and 3rd rep Set #3) and didn't give my max effort as I had already failed on set #1. Strategy seemed to work as I ran the table on the remaining 3 grips setting a PR on 1 of them.
Anyone ever do this? It felt kind of cheap while I was doing it, but in the end it seemed like a good move to save some of that effort for the last 3 grips.
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Post by jessebruni on Jun 9, 2015 9:00:40 GMT -7
Were the last 3 grips related to RP so that saving energy on it would affect them? RP is my second to last grip (last is sloper) so I can go as hard as I want and it won't make a difference on the sloper.
I sort of see RP as a grip to improve pinky strength, and not a grip you're training because it's actually useful in climbing, in which case I'm comfortable with slow steady gains and I don't feel like I have to PR all the time on it.
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Post by joev9 on Jun 9, 2015 9:08:35 GMT -7
Sorry, I meant MR, not RP, the last three were middle position of SVDER, wide pinch, and three finger.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 9, 2015 15:29:05 GMT -7
I never enter a workout thinking I will intentionally tank a grip for the sake of other grips. However, I will get my ass kicked fairly often, and despite consciously wanting to try hard, I find myself unable to force myself to endure the amount of pain necessary to be successful (even though I know that capability exists somewhere inside me). I know in the moment that I'm not giving 100%, and I know that this may well help me on future grips, and I'm ok with that. But it makes me feel very, very dirty
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Punting
Jun 9, 2015 20:22:53 GMT -7
Post by jonfrisby on Jun 9, 2015 20:22:53 GMT -7
Mark how do you put up with the skin pain on grips like the micro crimp? As I take weight off, it gets hard, but more importantly, my skin hurts like crazy.
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 3:02:20 GMT -7
Post by Chris W on Jun 10, 2015 3:02:20 GMT -7
I haven't intentionally punted on grips, but I have had sessions where a particular grip feels totally weak. I have found that the next training session, the grip feels will often rebound. I try not to worry too much about it any more.
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 6:32:12 GMT -7
Post by joev9 on Jun 10, 2015 6:32:12 GMT -7
Mark, I certainly felt dirty during Sets 2 and 3 where I couldn't muster a full effort (my buddy was laughing at me with all the f-bombs coming out of my mouth), but ended up being happy with the subsequent progress on the remaining 3 grips. I didn't enter the workout with this as a plan, it just happened after failing miserably on Set 1...
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 8:46:34 GMT -7
Post by jessebruni on Jun 10, 2015 8:46:34 GMT -7
...I find myself unable to force myself to endure the amount of pain necessary to be successful... I'm a little disheartened to hear that this is always going to be an issue. I guess if you can handle the pain while hangboarding it will prepare you mentally for the sharp holds on real rock...
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 13:24:08 GMT -7
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 10, 2015 13:24:08 GMT -7
Mark how do you put up with the skin pain on grips like the micro crimp? As I take weight off, it gets hard, but more importantly, my skin hurts like crazy. I think of my heroes--Todd Skinner, Alan Watts, Jerry Moffat, Wolfgang--I know they wouldn't whine like a little girl over some fleeting skin pain
Seriously though, I pay a lot of attention to how I place my fingers on the holds. That can help somewhat, but it's always going to hurt if you're giving 100%. I think you can deaden nerves to some degree, but then you will just push a bit harder, until you reach the same pain threshold. You have to be prepared for it to hurt, and make a decision to deal with it. I'm telling you, heavy metal really helps. I was coaching a Millennial hippy-type once and he was listening to some soothing "sounds that colors make" tonal music while training. I couldn't understand it. I need to be amped up to really give it everything.
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 13:27:23 GMT -7
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 10, 2015 13:27:23 GMT -7
...I find myself unable to force myself to endure the amount of pain necessary to be successful... I'm a little disheartened to hear that this is always going to be an issue. I guess if you can handle the pain while hangboarding it will prepare you mentally for the sharp holds on real rock... Well, it's like any other aspect of sports performance. You have a pain tolerance baseline, and that will increase as you train it. But then you will just find things to do that are more painful, to match your improved baseline, so your perception of the pain will always be about the same, although your absolute performance on "painful" grips will steadily improve.
I can assure, the holds only get more painful as they get smaller, so might as well work on that during training
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 14:02:05 GMT -7
Post by jessebruni on Jun 10, 2015 14:02:05 GMT -7
I'm telling you, heavy metal really helps. I was coaching a Millennial hippy-type once and he was listening to some soothing "sounds that colors make" tonal music while training. I couldn't understand it. I need to be amped up to really give it everything. I wasn't aware you did one-on-one coaching. Would you mind elaborating on that a little bit? Also, I in my mind the color red would sound similar sound to heavy metal.
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 17:27:51 GMT -7
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 10, 2015 17:27:51 GMT -7
This was probably the sound of lavender
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Punting
Jun 10, 2015 19:07:16 GMT -7
Post by jonfrisby on Jun 10, 2015 19:07:16 GMT -7
PR on every grip today while listening to Kygo, Postal Service, etc. Some rap too though
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Punting
Jun 11, 2015 17:49:44 GMT -7
Post by stpatty on Jun 11, 2015 17:49:44 GMT -7
Has anyone punted entire HB workouts?
I did really well on HB4 (intermediate routine), PRs on 5 out of 7 grips. On the first two grips (biggest part of SVDER and MR 2 FP Deep) I even went an extra set because I didn't fail at the end of the 6th set - 2 sets of 7 reps each. Then on the other 3 PRs (smallest part of SVDER, IMR 3 FP Shallow and MRP 3 FP Slot) I failed right after 7 seconds on the 6th set. I was super psyched - almost perfect workout.
So on HB5 I added 5lbs to my baseline and 2nd set on all the grips I PR'ed on HB4 and left the other 2 grips the same as HB4 (Wide Pinch and Sloper)... well, serious punting disaster - I was failing at the end of the baseline set on some of them. My notes for each grip are pretty much WTF in really big letters. Took two rest days after HB4, was super psyched for HB5, good sleep and diet, even lost 1.5 lbs since HB4, etc..
How much weight increase do you guys recommend, only go up 2.5lbs? I feel super dirty for punting like that today, feels like a missed opportunity.
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Punting
Jun 11, 2015 18:58:47 GMT -7
Post by MarkAnderson on Jun 11, 2015 18:58:47 GMT -7
It happens, don't sweat it. That said, I know Lamont (slim) likes to use 2.5-lb. increments. He has an elaborate formula for determining how much to up the weight between workouts (search: Critical Damage Function). But I don't think the CDF would have helped you here since you did so well on HB4.
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