mclay
Junior Member
Posts: 96
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Post by mclay on Aug 7, 2016 1:13:40 GMT -7
Thanks, that works! Very interesting and helpful stuff.
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Post by bryan on Sept 15, 2016 10:38:59 GMT -7
That's interesting. My HB warmup is literally 12 minutes of ARCing followed by two easy sets on the HB (1 set of 7 reps and 1 set of 5 reps on a 1.5-pad open hand edge(on the large VDER)). From there I go straight into hard sets on Middle-Ring. I wonder if I would do better with more warm up. I feel like I would run out of steam if I warmed up more, since the HB portion is 80 minutes by itself (and I already feel like I run out of juice near the end). [For bouldering the duration of warm up varies a lot based on how I feel. Some days I'm firing on all cylinders within 20 minutes, other days it takes 45+ to get going, but that's rare. If I'm working a project in Clear Creek, I warm up in the barn for pretty much exactly 20 minutes, drive to the crag, approach, tie in and try to send. So my warmup for the first burn is only those 20 minutes, and I send on that first go plenty.] Mark, do you aim to continuously increase resistance on your two warmup sets, or do you keep it at a steady resistance across workouts?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Sept 15, 2016 11:03:46 GMT -7
For the first 4-5 workouts I do -10 and +10, then I bump up to -5/+15 for the last ~5 workouts.
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Post by johnybinwv on Oct 14, 2016 8:15:11 GMT -7
I'm with Mark on this one. I find that if I boulder too much/warm up too much then I run out of steam by the end of the hangboarding workout. One particularly common manifestation of 'running out of steam' for me is not being able to maintain mental focus during the hangboard sets. They require getting your psyche high, and if the session has run on too long I just get kind of clumsy which seems like an injury risk. I do however agree that some bouldering that requires coordinated movement is a good component of a warmup, but I think it is important to recognize that it is not the goal of the workout. This takes some discipline to cultivate the necessary balance between restraint and keeping other skills alive.
I also find for me that one or two cheater days of outdoor route climbing or bouldering during a 7-9 session hangboarding phase helps keep me sane and motivated. Others might disagree. I particularly find it satisfying to go multi-pitch traditional climbing at Seneca Rocks in WV or other fun long trad routes. These keep my head game intact and really satisfy the adventure need. The power phase affords a bit of outdoor bouldering for me so that satisfies outdoor climbing need as well. I just get grouchy if I don't get outside semi-regularly even while training.
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jcun
New Member
Posts: 26
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Post by jcun on May 3, 2017 11:40:32 GMT -7
Just completed my first power training working of 3rd cycle, fingers feel strong, and as expected just didn't have the power endurance. I managed just about flash everything in the warmup up to 2 grades below my project level.
This is the first cycle where I really tried following the intermediate campus routine. I was able to match my best ladder from last cycle which is 1-3-5 small rungs. I also tried double dynos on the small rungs and was able to dynos 3 times no skipping on the small rung which was a great achievement since that felt impossible before.
Can't wait to see where i'm at in a few more sessions.
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