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Post by stpatty on May 30, 2015 8:18:03 GMT -7
Headed to Kaly at end of summer - I've never climbed anything close to the style there, and wanted some advice for RPHB grips for my strength phase training.
Was thinking of doing both pinches, shallow or deep 2FP, sloper, half crimp on medium edge, and IMR on shallow 3FP.
Any other suggestions?
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Post by jorgemendoza on Jun 1, 2015 10:39:43 GMT -7
I would forget about the sloper and one of the pinches... but that's my biased opinion. My experience is very limited compared to several guys in this forum, so I would like to see them weighing in.
- Warm-up hold (Jug?) - Pinch (I would do just one pinch, the one that challenges you the most) - MR (Deep/Shallow... I think you are the only one that can tell. I usually worry more about whether it feels comfortable or not, and I am not shy about taking weight off. Be conservative) - SVDER* (Instead of sloper) - IM(R) (Same note from MR... Try IM instead of IMR) - Half crimp on medium edge
If you would like to keep both Pinches
- Warm-up hold (Half crimp on medium edge)
- Medium Pinch**
- MR (Deep/Shallow... I think you are the only one that can tell. I usually worry more about whether it feels comfortable or not.)
- Big Fat Pinch
- IM(R) (Same note from MR... Try IM instead of IMR)
- SVDER* (Instead of sloper)
*2014/2015 best hold in a hangboard according to a poll in which I was the only participant. ** 2014/2015 honorable mention |
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Post by stpatty on Jun 2, 2015 9:20:29 GMT -7
FWIW, I ended up going with a grip set-up similar to the intermediate HB routine in the RCTM book:
Warm-up Jug
SVDER/Med Edge (far left of grip)
MR - 2FP Deep
SVDER/Med Edge (far right of grip, smallest hold other than thin crimp - too scared to go to thin crimp)
IMR - 3FP Shallow
Wide Pinch
added - MRP, large 3 Finger Slot
Med Pinch
Sloper
Struggled to find best order, as well as deciding between deep 2FP and shallow 2FP. Still consdiering switching the last two grips - Med Pinch and Sloper. Also, doing the intermediate routine - 7 sec on/3sec off/3 min rest for 2 sets each (7 reps then 6 reps).
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Post by jorgemendoza on Jun 2, 2015 14:06:04 GMT -7
Good luck with your training.
Just one more comment. I used to use 8~9 grips in my hangboard workouts. Lately, I have been training 6 grips + warm-up grip. I feel that my workouts have improved in regards to the effort am giving in my hangs, i.e., I am trying harder than I used to. This has yield to better results. Though, this is just my experience, so, take it with a grain of salt.
Happy hanging.
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