Flexibility - the RCTM way

[nabis]

Hello,

I am almost at the end of my first training cycle and thinking about ways to enhance my next cycle to become a better climber. One of my main weaknesses is a lack of flexibility in the hip region. I cannot touch my toes standing with straight knees nor can I do a 90 degree splits, which seriously inhibits my ability to do a high step or stand on two holds far apart. So I am considering to add a structured approach to my next cycle.

The great tool I learned reading the book was to always quantify your results either using the hangboard with extra weights or the campus board. This keeps me insanely motivated and makes for great graphs, which sadly none of my friends have any interest in. They will come around...

Is there a way to quantify flexibility and has someone done this before?
How often do you stretch and in which phases of your cycle?
Do you stretch on off days or during supplemental exercises?
Is it a good idea to stretch during the rest phase?

Maybe someone can share some knowledge and point me in the right direction.

[MarkAnderson]

I'm no expert on stretching, but here are some things I've picked up over the years and some ideas:

-Only stretch once you are warm. It sounds like your issue is more leg/hip flexibility, so I would suggest going for a brisk walk (which I recommend doing daily regardless) and stretching your legs after.

-I was once taught that the way to increase flexibility is to stretch to your limit, and then flex the muscles being stretched against fixed resistance (ie an isometric contraction). Then relax the muscle and try to stretch a bit further. Rinse and repeat.

-I'm told long stretches (~1 minute duration) are the way to go

I don't know how much of that info is current.

Regarding quantification, I would suggest getting a measuring tape and measuring the width of your splits, etc. as you go. I don't have any idea on frequency. I would think you could do daily, or even several times daily. I would look into what gymnasts do. However, keep in mind they start really young when the body is very supple and injury-resistant. I've heard it gets very hard to increase flexibility as you get "older", and a more realistic goal after a certain point is to just maintain your existing flexibility. I don't know how old is too old though.

[rob]

Hi nabis,

This is something I have experimented with. My flexibility is okay generally, but I would hate to get shut down on a move because I cant get my foot high enough, so I like to focus on this a little too. Anyway, in my first 2 seasons I tried just doing what I called "flexibility sessions" on rest days between all workouts throughout the season. What I found is that - despite some motivation to keep flexible - these sessions definitely took a massive back seat and got done so sporadically flexibility increases were not accumulating from session to session.

Consequently, this season ive decided I'm going to take a more periodized approach to flexibility and ignore it during the earlier phases and then do lots of these sessions as soon as I start my PE phase. Though I do stretch the muscles I've trained after each session all season. I figure there's no need to be particularly flexible while in the strength and power phase, and increases in flexibility are definitely made fast and lost fast from my experience, so why not periodize it to peak along with the other physical attributes?

This may not suit your goals and you may be able to maintain motivation for it throughout the season, but its the most logical approach for me.

In terms of measurement I have no idea, but from experience any improvements made I find are pretty evident and easily tracked on face value.

[nabis]

May 24, 2015 9:16:08 GMT -7 rob said:

Hi nabis,

This is something I have experimented with. My flexibility is okay generally, but I would hate to get shut down on a move because I cant get my foot high enough, so I like to focus on this a little too. Anyway, in my first 2 seasons I tried just doing what I called "flexibility sessions" on rest days between all workouts throughout the season. What I found is that - despite some motivation to keep flexible - these sessions definitely took a massive back seat and got done so sporadically flexibility increases were not accumulating from session to session.

Thank you both for your input. Last year I had a similar experience, I got myself to stretch for two weeks after sessions but didn't stick with it. Even though there was a little improvement.

I have done some research on the internet and found some tests using either a measuring tape/ruler or a goniometer. The tests can be found on www.topendsports.com/testing/flex.htm. Unfortunately the website has no pictures which is a little bummer. I will focus on the following tests:

- Groin Flexibility Test - Adductor muscles of the hip
- Active Knee Extension - hamstrings
- Straight Leg Raise - hamstrings
- Modified Thomas Test - Iliposas, Quadriceps
- Calf Muscle Flexibility Test

[weej]

I've come close to buying this book before, based on my terrific experience with the author's Kettlebell routines a few years ago (about as un-sport-specific an activity you can imagine for climbing, but if you are stuck in a small apartment without a gym membership they are a life-saver)

www.dragondoor.com/b14/

so again not an endorsement, but might be worth checking out

[iepsje]

I think stretching definitely can help, but there is stretching an d stretching. If you want to quantify I would suggest to make pictures of the poses (and describe the pose, for example: feet to gether, knees straight, bent from the hips forward with a straight back). Or measure the hip angle (difficult) or the space between your hands and the floor. But for all of these measures it makes a great difference what your starting position is. If you have feet together or hip with apart, straight knees or slightly (unnoticed) bent etc. I am a yoga teacher and make regularly pictures of myself to see any progress. I like the pictures the best myself.
Furthermore, stretch when you are warm as Mike said. Differentiate between a stretching pain in the muscle and a sharp pain around joints. The latter is not good, as this usually indicates that you are trying to stretch a tendon (and they do not really stretch). The type of stretching suggested by Mark (If I understand him correctly) is what I also would suggest, it is called PNF (proprioceptive neuromuscular fascilitation). On google you can find al ins and outs of the technique and specific exercises for several muscles.
The idea behind it is that you work with your reflexes, by activating the muscle-to-be-stretch in advance, and then relax and stretch you facilitate the stretching and are reprogramming the muscle to let go. If you want to know more detail let me know.
In general, hold a stretch between 20 and 60 second (shorter has no effect, longer neither) and repeat the stretch for 3-4 times for most effect. Do not bounch in stretching, just hold and gradually deepen the stretch. Work with the breath.

If you want to aim hip range of motion, do not limit your stretching to the hamstrings, but also take exorotation (outward rotation) and abduction (lifting the leg sideways) into account.

Good luck!