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Post by climber511 on Apr 25, 2015 21:08:36 GMT -7
6' 2" tall and 203# this morning and pretty lean (10%). Considering all other things remaining equal - what would be a reasonable improvement with a weight loss of say 13 to 15# down to 188-190#? I do realize the question has no true answer. Just wondering the relationship of bodyweight loss to difficulty that people have experienced?
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 26, 2015 7:36:00 GMT -7
It really depends a lot on the terrain, but for me, climbing cruxes that are generally quite steep, I would guess 15# is one-to-two V-grades. The estimation is complicated by the fact that I'm rarely/never peaking while I'm 15# overweight, so when I'm actually 15# overweight, I'm also not super strong. But I've been in my power peak while being 5-10# overweight and that is worth about one V-grade. So my estimate at 15# is an extrapolation. How that translates to YDS depends entirely on the route.
The more weight you can get on your feet, the less it matters. Of course there's also a limit to the amount of weight your feet can support on cruxy moves, but I would argue your feet are far less sensitive to weight than your fingers.
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Post by Chris W on Apr 27, 2015 2:23:34 GMT -7
551, could you extrapolate the data using hangboard stats? You could count weight lost as strength gained and look at redpoint abilities compared to each season's hangboard bests for certain grips. At my current state, there are too many variables aside from strength that are changing to make any kind of assumption but I could look at this a little later.
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Post by slimshaky on Apr 27, 2015 12:32:15 GMT -7
i think it is kind of hard to quantify weight lost as strength gained. looking at my HB data i don't think there is a 1 for 1 transfer, based on looking at my pure strength (tension) values, (ie body weight plus or minus weights). looking at the data, it looks like i am stronger when i am heavier.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Apr 27, 2015 17:31:04 GMT -7
looking at the data, it looks like i am stronger when i am heavier. My experience is the same (for HBing--there is no doubt I boulder and campus better when I'm light). I wonder why this is. Better energy? Better mood? Better glycogen storage in the forearms? Anyway, since we're in the Weight Management forum, this is one reason I prefer to gain weight during the "off" season. |
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Post by James_E on Apr 28, 2015 8:12:26 GMT -7
I have noticed the same thing. Between my first and second seasons I lost about 8 or 10 pounds. It seems like this season my added weight should be 8 to 10 pounds higher than it was last season, but that's not what I'm seeing. In fact, my added weight is almost exactly the same as it was last season. I'm glad to hear others have experienced this same thing because it was pretty discouraging when I looked at my total resistance for this season vs. last season.
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Post by jonfrisby on May 1, 2015 5:27:44 GMT -7
James is your added weight at the start of this season the same as the END of last season? If so, that's an improvement - most folks lose a fair bit during the rest of the cycle.
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