Meals after climbing days during performance phase

[Chris W]

Has anyone experimented with consuming higher calorie meals after redpoint attempts (or success during the performance phase? I recently had a string of successful outdoor days which left me feeling both satisfied and famished at the same time. When I returned home after a full, hard and glorious day of cragging, I felt pretty wiped out and thought I could benefit from a higher calorie meal. For one meal, I consumed larger than planned (for this phase) portions with a higher amount of carbohydrates. For another, I consumed a normal meal but indulged in my favorite dessert in the whole world; homemade brownies with homemade fudge and ice cream. These meals didn't seem to effect my weight at all, but I can't tell that they either improved or hindered my performance or recovery.

Any thoughts on this subject? 

[MarkAnderson]

I see two separate questions there. 1) What do you eat after a send, and 2) what do you eat after a climbing day.

After I send all bets are off. I like to celebrate. Lately I tend to have one primary goal for each season, so after I reach that goal I have no good reason to continue dieting, the rest of the season is "bonus climbing" that I don't need to be fit for. However, last season I had multiple goals, and I didn't know how hard the second one would be, so I didn't go nuts after I sent the first one, but I still indulged myself a little bit. The 2014 summer season was the same way, and I still had about a 24-hour "anything goes" period to celebrate the first send. Neither of these celebrations had any long term effect on my weight. I was back to normal within a couple days and ultimately lost even more weight before sending the 2nd route.

Regarding normal (none-sending) post-workout/cragging meals, it's generally a good idea to consume more calories, and particularly more carbs, after a workout. This will enable the body to replenish glycogen in the muscles. The magnitude depends on where you are in your weight-loss plan. If you're cragging, hopefully you are at or very near your goal weight, so you can afford to consume more calories. I think if anything, this will improve your recovery, although you may feel a bit nauseous the next morning if you're body isn't used to all the refined sugar. Assuming that's a rest day it shouldn't have any negative effect for the next climbing day. One thing I like about eating more after climbing (even if it means eating proportionately less the next day) is that it gives me something to look forward to on climbing days, which can be anxiety-filled when I think I'm close to sending.

[Chris W]

Thanks for the feedback Mark. This season is a little tricky in terms of figuring out when to go on a brownie binge. My main goal is to complete lots of 5.11 routes to build a nice pyramid. The main route I had in mind was an awesome 11d called Groovin'. On the first day of my performance phase I sent Groovin', thus the brownie and icecream. I still, however, have several more climbs I would like to do before the performance phase ends. If I have more time, I'll write in the Psyche section.

For now, it's good to know others consume more carbs after a workout/cragging day. Hasn't seemed to affect my weight.