Post by dryfarmer on Apr 13, 2015 10:23:46 GMT -7
I would love to say, like Jesse, that I'm planning for the long term, but since I have tunnel vision and can't look up from my current project, wondering if anybody has advice on planning for sending NOW.
Basically I'm looking at probably 1-3 days on my project in the next two weeks (work makes non-wkend climbing very difficult). After that the game is almost certainly up (work travel, heat, probable loss of power, etc.)
The boulder problem is 9 hand moves. The crux is the 9th move, which is a dynamic stab into a slot jug, with one foot certainly coming off, and likely both feet cutting. The problem is maybe 35 degrees overhanging with the crux area a bit steeper (total guess just based on eyeballing). I have not yet done the crux move, but starting on move 7, I have wrapped fingers on the edge of the hold without really weighting it substantially. I think part of the problem is lacking power, but part is also technical and logistic (still learning the best movement and position, more pads would increase confidence to go for it, a spotter would do the same, etc.) I'm not totally sure where I stand in terms of power-endurance to do it, assuming that I could do the crux in the first place. What I do know is that I generally have TERRIBLE power-endurance. I have not been on a rope in 3 years, and something as short as a 9-move boulder problem is long enough, generally, for me to feel the effect of length. I haven't given it a fresh go from the beginning recently because I have only been on it one day this performance cycle and I spent a bunch of energy working out beta and trying the crux, but at the end of my last session I fell on the 8th move from the start. I suspect things are not quite that bad though because I was pretty tired when I made that attempt.
My suspicion is that the primary issues are 1) power and 2) mental. Since I'm only getting out 1 day this weekend upcoming, I'm tentatively planning 2 weekday sessions each of the next two weeks. I'm thinking just do my best to get the power side of the equation in place and hope the rest follows ("if you can't do the move, you have nothing to endure" and all that.) So the schedule looks like this.
Previous Saturday: last climbing.
Tuesday: campus workout
Thursday: limit boulder
Sunday: possible attempts on project, but will be hungover
Tuesday: campus workout
Thursday: limit boulder
Saturday and/or Sunday: go send project
Am I completely off base here in some way or should I be thinking about something else, doing something else? Any and all input welcome. And of course I already know I'm gunna die.
Oh I almost forgot to mention my core is also relatively weak (I've done targeted core training about 2 times in the last 6 months) so I'm also going to be focusing on that.
tl;dr - need to send proj in next two weeks. haven't done crux yet. how many times should i workout and should i do power, power-endurance, both or something else?
Basically I'm looking at probably 1-3 days on my project in the next two weeks (work makes non-wkend climbing very difficult). After that the game is almost certainly up (work travel, heat, probable loss of power, etc.)
The boulder problem is 9 hand moves. The crux is the 9th move, which is a dynamic stab into a slot jug, with one foot certainly coming off, and likely both feet cutting. The problem is maybe 35 degrees overhanging with the crux area a bit steeper (total guess just based on eyeballing). I have not yet done the crux move, but starting on move 7, I have wrapped fingers on the edge of the hold without really weighting it substantially. I think part of the problem is lacking power, but part is also technical and logistic (still learning the best movement and position, more pads would increase confidence to go for it, a spotter would do the same, etc.) I'm not totally sure where I stand in terms of power-endurance to do it, assuming that I could do the crux in the first place. What I do know is that I generally have TERRIBLE power-endurance. I have not been on a rope in 3 years, and something as short as a 9-move boulder problem is long enough, generally, for me to feel the effect of length. I haven't given it a fresh go from the beginning recently because I have only been on it one day this performance cycle and I spent a bunch of energy working out beta and trying the crux, but at the end of my last session I fell on the 8th move from the start. I suspect things are not quite that bad though because I was pretty tired when I made that attempt.
My suspicion is that the primary issues are 1) power and 2) mental. Since I'm only getting out 1 day this weekend upcoming, I'm tentatively planning 2 weekday sessions each of the next two weeks. I'm thinking just do my best to get the power side of the equation in place and hope the rest follows ("if you can't do the move, you have nothing to endure" and all that.) So the schedule looks like this.
Previous Saturday: last climbing.
Tuesday: campus workout
Thursday: limit boulder
Sunday: possible attempts on project, but will be hungover
Tuesday: campus workout
Thursday: limit boulder
Saturday and/or Sunday: go send project
Am I completely off base here in some way or should I be thinking about something else, doing something else? Any and all input welcome. And of course I already know I'm gunna die.
Oh I almost forgot to mention my core is also relatively weak (I've done targeted core training about 2 times in the last 6 months) so I'm also going to be focusing on that.
tl;dr - need to send proj in next two weeks. haven't done crux yet. how many times should i workout and should i do power, power-endurance, both or something else?
