Hangboarding: no progress with half crimp

[carla]

I recently started with the Intermediate hangboard protocol from the Rock Climbers training manual. I just finished session 7. Over the sessions I've been able to gradually increase my weight for all grips, except for the half crimp. I keep failing on the last rep of the second set with the same added weight.

For this grip type my 1-rep max is bodyweight (56) + 8 kg. In the repeater protocol I do:
Set 1: -3kg (82% of 1RM)
Set 2: +2kg (90% of 1RM)
Set 1 feels quite easy and on set 2 each time my fingers start to sag on the 6th rep of the 2nd set. I see 0 improvement from session to session.

In between the sessions I rest for about 70 hours. I eat well, sleep well, feel fully recovered and my overnight HRV remains high.

Before starting this protocol I'd been doing max hangs 6sets of 1 rep, only using the half crimp grip.

Does anybody have advice what I could do?
Thanks very much!

[Mike Anderson]

Carla, that's not too unusual. It sounds like you've been training a bit already, and are probably pretty close to your max. You're stating that you started set 1 and 82% of 1RM, which is probably too high for the amount of volume you're trying to do with this protocol. It will take time for your muscles to respond. I recommend that next time you do a hangboarding phase, that you start lower, maybe 60% of 1RM for set one, and 65% of 1RM for set 2, then increase gradually. Good luck!

[carla]

I just found out this forum is still active and I'm very happy to see that!! Thanks a lot for your reply Mike!

Would you have a guideline for how quickly I should build up the weight? Should I target to end session 10 with eg 80% of my 1RM, measured at the start of the strength phase? And in terms of adaptations, what do you mostly expect to go wrong/be suboptimal when starting this protocol with too much weight?

I'm now in the middle of a strength block, would you suggest to immediately lower the amount of weight?

Thanks again!