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Post by Carl0s on Feb 20, 2015 13:41:02 GMT -7
Hello amigos,
I'm researching the best way to prepare the skin on the fingers for rock climbing / bouldering.
I have been climbing for a while now and I know that thick skin on the pads of the fingers is what we want, but how?
Mark says to sand our finger pads in between training sessions.
What does sanding do, besides smoothing skin tears?
Does the sanding build thick skin?
What other ways (when not climbing outside often) could we build thick skin?
Lets dedicate this thread to proven ways to build the BEST SKIN for rock climbing / bouldering.
This info should be super valuable and I'm looking forward to reading some of the replies.
Carlos
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Post by jessebruni on Feb 20, 2015 13:50:39 GMT -7
I too would be curious about information on this topic. I've noticed skin cycles personally. Usually my skin is fine and not an issue for 3-4 months, then it will start to peel and it becomes really terrible. This lasts about 2 months. Then once all the old skin is gone I'm back to the beginning where my skin is good again.
I don't know too much about skin care in general and I think this has to do with climbing on limestone which is not very gritty and tends to be pretty skin friendly.
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Post by jonfrisby on Feb 20, 2015 15:03:14 GMT -7
Sanding has seemed to me to be really great for encouraging new skin to grow. Also, I feel like it makes it easier to allow climb on etc. to soak in when you apply after sanding.
Question: does anyone experience subdural bleeding when they hang board? I've noticed that there are bands across my finger pads where the edge of the small crimp hits where I can see some bruising in the second or third layer.
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Post by jessebruni on Feb 20, 2015 15:59:17 GMT -7
Never got it from hangboarding, but I get it all the time when climbing outdoors. Sharp pockets...
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Post by MarkAnderson on Feb 20, 2015 16:12:15 GMT -7
The purpose of sanding is essentially the same as the purpose of training. It makes your skin "weaker" (thinner) in the near term, which prompts the super compensation cycle. Do this regularly and eventually you will have thicker, tougher skin.
The short cut is Antihydral, which can get you near the same results. The downside is that about half the time I use the stuff my season ends prematurely due to some horrific Antihydral-induced skin injury. Last year I got better at using it, and I didn't have any serious issues, but over the last six months I've done great without using it at all. I firmly believe you can achieve as-good or better results through sanding with none of the risks of Antihydral.
It takes a lot of experimentation to learn how to use Antihydral. Everybody responds differently to it, and your response varies from season to season. It generally makes the most sense to use when it's hot and humid and avoid when it's cold and dry.
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Post by Carl0s on Feb 20, 2015 17:28:25 GMT -7
Antihydral and SUGGESTIONS on how to apply it? - I have some antihydrol and I use it during the last 3 days before a climbing trip (I leave it on my finger tips for about 15 minutes per day). I haven't noticed any skin thickening, but definatily drier skin. The first time I used it I got splits on four different finger tips during my FIRST climb of the trip and the skin kept splitting for months after the trip. A NIGHTMARE!!!! I'm going to go with the sanding, BUT still would like to know how others apply the Antihydrol. - How many days before a climbing trip?
- How long does it stay on the finger tips?
- Do we continue using it after the climbing trip?
- Recommended or NOT Recommended
Thanks everyone, this is turning out good. Let's add more value.
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Post by avaserfi on Feb 22, 2015 16:27:53 GMT -7
What tool(s) does everyone use for sanding? I've been using sanding 3m soft blocks med/coarse, but they fall apart pretty quickly.
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Post by Carl0s on Feb 23, 2015 10:38:18 GMT -7
What tool(s) does everyone use for sanding? I've been using sanding 3m soft blocks med/coarse, but they fall apart pretty quickly. I have just been using 80 grit sand paper that I find in the wood shop at work. |
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Post by slimshaky on Feb 23, 2015 14:10:59 GMT -7
i use 100 grit sandpaper strips (say 6" long by 2" wide), wrapped around a small cylinder. i bought a piece of 1" diameter pvc pipe (cheap) and cut it into a bunch of pieces. so, i have a little sanding kit in all of my packs, my gym bag, my HB station, my offices, etc. works great and is really cheap.
like mark says, i generally try to do a litte sanding on each of my rest days. if i have some rough spots it try to smooth those out before my workouts, just so they don't get torn up more.
at night, before bed, i usually use hoofmaker. i also use this after workouts as well because my hands have been nuclear-chalked and need some moisture.
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Post by andrew on Feb 23, 2015 17:29:24 GMT -7
For sanding I use a medium texture foam sanding block- 3M makes them and they are around 2 bucks. Mine usually last about a year. I keep one in my climbing pack and one in the garage for training.
I bought antihydral a while back and have experimented with it. If it splits your tips I'd say your skin is probably dry enough without it. I've put it on just my tips, careful to avoid getting it in the creases, and let it soak in for about 30 minutes the night before a day of outdoor bouldering. Interestingly, you can get similar results from rubbing raw garlic on your tips as well.
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Post by Chris W on Feb 23, 2015 21:10:26 GMT -7
What tool(s) does everyone use for sanding? I've been using sanding 3m soft blocks med/coarse, but they fall apart pretty quickly. I have a little pumice stone my wife got from Norwex. I think it's much nicer than a sanding block and seems to be holding up very well for me. |
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sr
New Member
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Post by sr on Feb 24, 2015 9:02:40 GMT -7
The type of skin you have will strongly influence what works. I rarely build calluses on my finger tips unless I am climbing outside 4-5 days week. Odd, I know. My hands are sweaty and on a warmer day I have to chalk almost every move. Even in the winter temps (50deg), I like to use liquid chalk.
Also, every website about anti-hydral says not to apply this in the joint crease. I experimented with thisand applied anti-hydral over the crease on2 fingers and they didn't split. I don't recommend trying this, I bring it up only to highlight what type of skin I am dealing with.
Regarding anti-hydral I have experimented with multiple protocols and have different routines depending on where I am climbing (sharp edges vs. cobbles, vs. blocky limestone)
Here is my normal routine for sharpish edge climbing:
If Iwant to climb on Saturday and Sunday. I use it both Tuesday andWednesday nights, apply a thin layer to fingertip first pad only and leave it on overnight.
I do this every week. On Saturday morning, I will sand them down a tiny bit to remove any edges and if the calluses get too thick, I sand them off to fresh skin on Sunday night.
•Recommended or NOT Recommended - this stuff can seriously wreak your finger tips and ruin a climbing trip....
Shanna
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Post by jonfrisby on Feb 25, 2015 7:45:04 GMT -7
Antihydral: the greasier/sweatier your hands, the less problematic it will be - at least in my and my friends' experience. I have sweaty hands and oily skin, and have never had an issue with antihydral splitters
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sean
New Member
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Post by sean on Mar 27, 2015 12:12:07 GMT -7
I admire you folks who can sand your tips the day after training, I'm lucky if I have much skin left on my tips after a day in the gym, too many slopers and pinches that apparently want my skin more than I do.
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Post by jonfrisby on Mar 27, 2015 23:07:06 GMT -7
For me it's more about evening things out, Sean. My pads tend to get heavy wear while the sides can even bunch up with ridges of extra skin so I have to make sure there's some evenness.
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