Need help with creating a bouldering training plan

[foreverv3]

Hi, 

Just received my RCTM this week, and I'll be implementing the bouldering training schedule during the summer; I want to delay training until after I finish my return trip to Hueco Tanks and Red Rocks in April and March, respectively.  I have questions about establishing a training program as I've never really implemented one aside from bouldering on my indoor wall (45) and climbing outside.  I've been climbing for about 4 years with the last year pretty much spent outdoors; I recently finished a trip to Hueco (Rock Rodeo), and I think I'm a V4 climber (flashed all V4s and two V5s; typically takes about 3-6 attempts to send V5; hardest send is V6/7). I'm an older climber (36 y.o.) with no nagging injuries although I get some stiffness in my lower back after about 3 days of consecutive climbing.  Here are my questions:

1.  In the first phase (Base), if my local crag doesn't have 20+ M problems, should I do this at an indoor gym?  Would it be better to repeat problems to accumulate mileage (outside)?  What is your definition of "moderate" for bouldering?  In regard to skills acquisition, should we do this before/during/after the problems? Should we conduct one (or more) drill(s) from each section (i.e. general, lower-body, footwork, dynamic, etc.)?

2.  In the second phase (Strength), you stated that "During finger-strength, consider...'Max Recruitment Training with a Hangboard' sidebar found in Chapter 7."  Should I be implementing this in the second phase or during the third phase (Power)?

3.  In the third phase (Power), following the limit bouldering routine (p.134, example), should I even try going beyond the warm up for a beginner (i.e. complete Phase 3 of the warm up only) or should I try the intermediate routine? 

4.  In the fourth phase (Performance), when the schedule reads "Boulder Attempts," should I be bouldering at my limit (i.e. trying my projects) or should I be near max in order to leave myself energy to complete the 5 moderate problems?

5.  Would it be possible to create a condensed bouldering training cycle and still be able to see some success from it in lieu of completely forgoing one? 

I figure these are dumb questions, but I'm unsure of how to continue.  I have a narrow window as a boulderer since I started late, but hopefully I'll be able to climb my dream problems (Midnight Lightning, High Plains Drifter, Babyface, Snake Charmer) before I turn 40.  Thanks for any advice.

[MarkAnderson]

1. Using an indoor gym would be fine, or do a combination. It's ok to repeat problems if necessary, but the idea is to experience a variety of moves. Still there is value in repeating problems if you focus on climbing them more efficiently each time. "Moderate" means relative to your own ability. It's whatever grade(s) will allow you to complete 20+ problems.

2. No, when you're stagnating at V11 (or something), consider it.

3. I would try it and see what you think.

4. Whatever your goals are. If your goal is to send a bunch of great problems near your limit, then do that. If your goal is to climb the hardest problem you've ever done, then work on that.

5. Yes! The challenge will be deciding which items to eliminate when you've never done it before. That's why it's a good idea to just follow the schedule the first time around. You will quickly learn which activities are helpful and which ones are not.

[foreverv3]

Thanks Mark.  The advice / direction is much appreciated.

[foreverv3]

Thanks Mark.  The advice / direction is much appreciated.