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Post by tradmike on Jan 30, 2015 18:08:43 GMT -7
About to start while my power phase for the first time, while following the trad plan. I currently and flashhing v2's and finishing most v'3s in 3 to 4 tries and was working on a few v4's.
I'm trying to understand for limit bouldering am i to find a boulder problem with 1 or 2 hard moves and just work those moves, or do i work the whole problem going into those moves and finishing the problem. Also if i'm doing v3's in a few tries would that mean limit problems would be around the v'5 range depening on the problem and all.
thanks just having a hard time understanding and want to make sure i'm training right and now just bouldering, hoping on whatever problem looks fun.
Mike
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 30, 2015 18:37:51 GMT -7
Mike,
The point is really to work the 1 or 2 hard moves during the "limit bouldering" portion of the workout (Note, most of the workout is spent doing easier bouldering). However, I like to feel like I'm accomplishing something, so once I'm able to do the limit moves, I try to send the problem.
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Post by tradmike on Jan 31, 2015 11:34:10 GMT -7
Well did my first session today was rather interesting. It was hard to find problems that were not on some severly overhanging cave like you had mentioned. I did 20 minutes of arc traversing, then the boulder ladder up to v3. I then starting working individual moves on some much harder problems. The biggest thing i found was that by the time i got to the limit problems i was rather tired already from everything else.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Jan 31, 2015 13:23:56 GMT -7
Ok, that's a good data point. So next time shorten some of the other activities so you have some more juice left at the end.
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Post by daustin on Feb 3, 2015 15:39:48 GMT -7
One thing to note too is that Limit Bouldering is a relatively advanced workout, and I wonder if it might not be the best use of time if you're working on V4s. I think you'd probably get more benefit by focusing on hard bouldering (i.e., actually trying to send V4s and maybe some V5s) rather than just trying 1-2 hard moves on a V5 or V6. At that level, I think there's probably still a lot of upside in terms of learning new techniques, and trying hard boulder problems is probably one of the best ways to get exposed to a bunch of different types of moves and body positions (if your gym has varied terrain and good setting, at least). I'd go back to the book and re-read the Power section; IIRC, for the beginner plan I don't think any LB is recommended. Read up on the hard bouldering and try that out. Would be interested to hear others' thoughts on this.
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Post by tradmike on Feb 4, 2015 16:51:10 GMT -7
Had a slightly better session today. I Did not do the limit moves but worked soe harder boulder problems. I did find it hard not to get sucked into a project. I also found that certain v2's even were harder than some v4's. I guess it depends on the angle and who set the problems.
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bk
New Member
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Post by bk on Feb 5, 2015 7:26:44 GMT -7
I just finished my first season and I climb at about your level. I found I was progressing really well with hard bouldering rather than limit bouldering. Good luck!
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bk
New Member
Posts: 24
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Post by bk on Feb 5, 2015 7:27:07 GMT -7
I just finished my first season and I climb at about your level. I found I was progressing really well with hard bouldering rather than limit bouldering. Good luck!
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Post by tradmike on Feb 11, 2015 5:54:41 GMT -7
Really enjoying this phase noticing some good improvement in my strength and ability to read problems. One thing I have noticed is the range of difficulty depending on the route setter. Some v are significantly harder than a v depending on who set them. Also noticed that slopes pinches don't feel nearly as bad.
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Post by tradmike on Feb 11, 2015 5:57:27 GMT -7
It should say some v 2. Feel harder than some 4's
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