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Post by lvcrimping on Jan 12, 2015 17:41:08 GMT -7
I just finished up my first performance phase and am thinking about goals for next season. Power and strengths as always. This season I finished 1 12.C and 4 12.B's which was quite good for me, but I still cannot campus. is this normal? I did the workouts with feet-on this season and am wondering if it would be more effective to stick with LB next season and save the campus board for when I can do it more effectively.
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 12, 2015 22:01:47 GMT -7
What seems to be the limiting factor-- hanging the edges or moving between them? Do you use the RP board, and if so, which workout are you doing and about what weight are you using for semi crimp grips on either the small adjustable edge or the smaller part of the upper adjustable edge?
It seems, unless you have large or extra large rungs on your board, that you need to be pretty comfortable hanging bodyweight or more from the outer part of the larger adjustable edge. That feels sorta like a good test for the medium campus rung to me.
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Post by jessebruni on Jan 13, 2015 11:11:37 GMT -7
If you can climb 12c but can't campus my thought would be that you are either climbing in an extremely technical area, or you simply need to learn some campusing technique. If it's the former you should probably stick with feet on campusing but continue to use smaller footholds, as your fingers, as well as shoulders probably are not strong enough yet. If it's the latter you may simply need to build confidence. I like to campus on jugs to get the movement down and get confidence in my ability to latch holds with some momentum. Then I campus on smaller holds that are still larger than the larger campus rungs. When it makes sense to increase difficulty further from there I'll move on to the actual campus board feeling prepared.
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sr
New Member
Posts: 19 
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Post by sr on Jan 13, 2015 12:44:00 GMT -7
How many pull-ups can you do in a set? If you can crank out a few reps, it is probably a technique issue. I have to initiate a slight kipping action to campus.
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Post by lvcrimping on Jan 14, 2015 6:44:58 GMT -7
Thank you all for the helpful responses.
I looked at my last seasons records and I think the weakness comes from the open handed crimp strength, it is at less than body weight. Yes, the technical part is also holding me back but I think that will come once I increase the grip strength. So I will focus on that weakness during the HB phase and try again this season.
Thanks again
Any recommendation for shoulder exercises that will help with the campus board?
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Post by tedwelser on Jan 15, 2015 8:40:23 GMT -7
One highly specific thing you could do for campusing is to do a set of bodyweight hangs from your goal campus rung. In fall I felt as though I was not strong enough for campusing, so this winter I made a point of doing one set of 7 hangs of up to 7 seconds each at the end of my HB workout. It was more of a litmus test than a workout, I just did one set. At first I could do just do 4 7 second hangs, and the remaining 3 were partial time.
A second thing you could do during your power phase is do some basic ladders and max ladders with one or two feet on some small footholds. At that point, it is a boulder problem, but just a very simple and repetitive one that happens to also prepare you for some aspects of campusing.
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