Learning to Climb Stronger

[joev9]

Read this interesting quote from Adam Ondra from this great interview (www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42342&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter):

So where are your weaknesses? And what do you do to improve them?
"This may sound stupid, but I am still weak. I can still improve my raw power. At the same time, with each level of power, your efficient technique is different. Every time you get stronger, you need to learn to climb again."

I have felt much stronger lately and have noticed at times that by being stronger I can use different (better?) techniques on certain problems.  I hadn't thought it all they way through, but Adam's quote really got me to complete the thinking that as you get stronger you can use different techniques (or your "efficient techniques" as Adam calls them) and actually need a period of learning to climb as a stronger climber with these new techniques.  I have really noticed this on my totally wired warmup problems where I find myself doing moves differently than when I was weaker.  The moves felt awkward at first, but once I re-wired the newer moves with the different techniques they ended up being much easier. 

Has anyone else noticed this?

[jessebruni]

I actually experience the opposite. For me when I get stronger I can get away with just lunging for a hold instead of placing my feet and twisting my hips in the correct way to take weight off my arms. So for me when I get stronger I have to figure out how to NOT use that strength when I don't need it.

[cardiffsurfer]

Same here. I've noticed that as my finger strength improves, I'm starting to rely on my new found crimp strength to lock off on small holds in an inefficient manner. I've only been hangboarding for a couple of months, but my gains in strength are definitely outpacing technique. I won't lie - it's kinda cool - but I'm hoping I can improve my technique to take better advantage of these gains.

[wcohen]

Dec 5, 2014 16:15:33 GMT -7 jessebruni said:

I actually experience the opposite. For me when I get stronger I can get away with just lunging for a hold instead of placing my feet and twisting my hips in the correct way to take weight off my arms. So for me when I get stronger I have to figure out how to NOT use that strength when I don't need it.

I think this is the heart of what Adam was implying. As one gets stronger he must learn to use this strength in the most efficient way and spend time relearning and adapting to ones new abilities.