Development of Power

[AnaD]

My husband and I are using the Rock Prodigy training book to train this winter. We've been climbing for several years but this is the first time we've done "training" to really try to improve our climbing and we're enjoying it. 
I am looking for some ideas to improve power. I am an endurance runner (I know the authors can relate) and I lack power, big time. I rely on slow moves, often crimpy and clever instead of big and powerful. We are in the Power phase now. I am seeing some progress on the campus board and I do try to pick somewhat more powerful problems for our Hard Bouldering sessions.  Are there any other ideas for how to develop a more power? Does general power development (like sprinting workouts) translate to climbing power by working fast-twitch muscles?
Ana

[Admin]

Power training is localized to the individual muscle fibers involved, so sprint cycling workouts that develop leg power will not help your forearm power. In fact, a given athlete can have a substantially different distribution of muscle-fiber types (in terms of fast twitch/slow twitch) between muscle groups.

So the best thing you can do to improve your power for rock climbing is to use training-specific exercises. That said, improving your core strength/power can go along way to improving your ability to execute powerful moves, so be sure to include some Whole-Body Strength Training into your plan.
(This is Mark)

[AnaD]

Thanks!