Plan - need feedback!

[vm]

I recently got the book, but wanted some feedback for my specific situation. I am 6’1, 180 (not really fat but muscular, with excess weight in lower body due to mountaineering and weight lifting backround). Finger strength seems to be my biggest weakness at the moment. Small holds destroy me. If I boulder v4s-v5s with some of my friends, I fall off from v3s when it comes to those holds, and some of my friends could float up them (they are lighter/smaller in general). I can do 15+ pull ups with good form, most of them can’t, so I know it is my fingers, not some kind of a muscle weakness.

My goal now is to lose 15 lbs and boulder/hangboard for 6-8 weeks (self designed strength phase) and do a power phase from the book after. I am trying to diet and was wondering if you guys are supplementing with some kind of a protein drink/banana after the workout, or do you just have a meal with healthy amount of protein/carbs? And how about before the workout? Some of my crusher friends eat a heavy meal, some have coffee (especially those who train in the morning). I sit on my ass all day and than go training at 5pm : ( Now I usually mix a pack of instant oatmeal with instant coffee and have a banana. Seems to give me enough energy.

My schedule now is Monday – Abs/opposing muscles/power yoga class
Tuesday - 1.5 of bouldering and a session on hang board with frenchies on HB incorporated into it (lock offs is another weak spot)
Wednesday – 5 mile run and power yoga
Thursday – either 2 hours of bouldering or 1.5 hours with a HB session after
Friday – complete rest day
Saturday/Sunday – climb outdoors. Trad usually, even though will do more sport now that it is winter.

Any thoughts? Tips? Maybe I am over-thinking it, but why not...I want to get the most out of my plan...

[Chris W]

Nov 10, 2014 13:00:14 GMT -7 vm said:

I recently got the book

If you haven't had a chance, you should probably read through the whole book. The Andersons have put in information that would address each point of your plan.

[MarkAnderson]

+1 what Chris said. A couple of other thoughts:

- I would recommend much less volume. That will be emphasized repeatedly in the book.
- Don't do Frenchies on the hangboard. Instead use free-hanging rings, your elbows will thank you.
- If you're dieting, I would start by cutting out carbs to the extent possible. I eat a high protein/low calorie bar after each workout.

Good luck!