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Post by ekaufhold on Sept 20, 2014 11:04:33 GMT -7
Hello Mark and Mike!
I recently purchased your book and I just want to first say thanks for creating such a comprehensive resource for climbers. I currently live in northern Canada (Grande Prairie, Alberta) and since it will be at least a year until I can climb real rock again, I was hoping to use my training progress, hopefully, as a source of motivation. With this in mind, I was wondering if you guys have ever considered sharing what you guys were able to accomplish through each phase of training before you completed some of your hardest routes? I was thinking that putting up in my training area 'benchmarks' of workouts that you or Jonathan Siegrist completed would help me get through what is expected to be a long, cold, snowy, Canadian winter. Thanks again.
Erik
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 9, 2014 13:03:09 GMT -7
Erik, That's a cool idea! I could certainly do it, the problem would be that unless we're all using the same training terrain (hangboard/interval circuit/etc) it would be kinda meaningless. Hopefully with the surprising popularity of the RPTC we will be able to do something like that in the future. I've only had my RPTC for a year now, so I don't have much data to share at this point. Before the RPTC I was using a random of assortment of grips that included two pairs of bolt-on holds, a set of pump rocks screwed into my moounting board, and a Power Station hangboard that I cut in half and rotated. Anyway, here is (presumably) way more than you ever wanted to know about some hangboard data from my winter season last year: rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/12/18/hangboard-resistance-data-analysis/Also, here are my hangboard logs from my Fall 2008 season. This is the season I sent To Bolt Or Not To Be, and did my first 5.13 onsight (Table of Colors at the Red): rockclimberstrainingmanual.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/2008-c-fall-hb.pdfIf there's anything in particular you would like to see, please let me know! |
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Post by slimshaky on Oct 9, 2014 13:39:56 GMT -7
i still can't ever look at your data without being shocked at how strong you are. even having looked at it several times, i am still shocked every time i look at it.
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Post by ekaufhold on Oct 10, 2014 10:46:21 GMT -7
Mark,
Thanks for sharing and I'm glad you like the idea. I love details and find it motivating and inspiring when athletes share their progress/benchmarks before reaching a particular goal. I've seen lots of videos of top climbers training and pulling off fantastic feats on the hangboard/campus board/bouldering wall but, to me, the way it's shown makes it seem as if there's no point in the rest of us climbers trying these things. They show us 'the what' but not 'the how'. This is why I think it's so great that you and your brother are willing to share with us so much information/workouts and I hope that someday, other top climbers will share the details of their workouts too. Thanks again.
Erik
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Post by jessebruni on Apr 7, 2015 14:21:31 GMT -7
i still can't ever look at your data without being shocked at how strong you are. even having looked at it several times, i am still shocked every time i look at it. Seconded. I did my first workout with the IM shallow pocket lastnight maxing out at -30 on my last set and hoping to get to bodyweight by the end of the hangboard phase. +40 on that hold seems unreal. I used the same weights, and have the same hope for the thin crimp as well, and I'm similarly impressed. I totally understand why "skin care" is so important now. |
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Post by climber511 on Apr 8, 2015 8:55:02 GMT -7
When you show the weights added etc to SVDER - where (from inside to outside) are you hanging (easiest to hardest)? As the depth varies - it matters when keeping track or trying to compare. It might be nice to have a numbering system to make note keeping consistent for all of us. It might show SVDER as say 1 - 2 - 3 from inside to outside to show position used - does this make sense? An over all holds numbering system would be even better now that I think about it.
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Post by jessebruni on Apr 8, 2015 9:40:13 GMT -7
If you're talking about Mark's data he mentioned that the outermost PIB is between his middle and ring fingers. So he's basically hanging on the smallest part of the SVDER.
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Post by climber511 on Apr 8, 2015 10:20:50 GMT -7
If you're talking about Mark's data he mentioned that the outermost PIB is between his middle and ring fingers. So he's basically hanging on the smallest part of the SVDER. Sorry I didn't catch that but it might still be valuable for we mere mortals  . |
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