training without going Full Rockprodigy?

[rorschah]

I posted this on MP, and somebody suggested I re-post here:

I'm trying to figure out how to build a training program with some of the periodization and training stuff, but without the full-on, hard-core, complete training dedication of the Rockprodigy program.

So: I've read pretty much every Anderson brother post on here, and bought and consumed their new book. First: it's excellent. I have been enlightened, many times. Second: I have no doubt that their program will produce results. Absolute trust. Third: it's not for me, I'm pretty sure, at least in its fullest incarnation.

The problem, for me, is that the Full Rockprodigy Hardcore involves dropping actual climbing out, for long periods of time - like, for instance, the hypertrophy phase. I'm largely convinced that they're right, and a pure hypertrophy phase will produce the optimal results. But I'm not willing to do it, because the main reason I climb - the biggest reason - is the extraordinary emotional effect climbing - regular climbing - has on me.

I used to be extremely moody, given to depressive bouts, a stress-case. In the five years since I've started climbing, the effect on me, and my mental everything, has been extraordinary. Some of it is just simple hard physical work. But a lot of it is very specific to what happens in climbing - something about the process of figuring out hard problems, the focus of sending - that does something magic to my mind, knocks me out of bad loops. The mid-week gym sessions do it quite well, and the weekend trips - they're like this magical reset. They cut through the mental mess.

So I'm not willing to give that that up. But I'd still like to start training - I've definitely been in the "go to the gym and boulder at random until tired" category, up until now. But I'm not willing to abate regular climbing, though I am willing to reduce it. So the question is: accepting that the results will be non-optimal, how do I weave things like hang boarding and campusing in to get some effect?

Or, to put it in the language of Rockprodigy: my primary goal is regular climbing for mental well-being and clarity, and improvement at climbing is a secondary goal.

I've been finding some notes about flexible programs on Bechdel's Climbstrong site, but it lacks a lot of details for a training novice like me.

The ideas I'm playing around with look like:

A. Tues: Moderate climbing volume followed by hangboard. Thurs: Boulder. Weekend: outdoor climb
B. Mon: Boulder. Tues: Hangboard. Thursday: Volume. Weekend: outdoor climb
C. Tues: Boulder. Thurs: Juggy system-board type stuff, Hangboard. Weekend: outdoor climb
D. Mon: ARC/hangboard. Wed: Boulder. Thurs: Volume. Weekend: outdoor climb

But really, I'm clueless. Will hang boarding once a week be enough? Or, if it has to be twice a week, is there any way to stack it with other climbing? The gist I get from the Rockprodigy book sometimes seems like: "if it's once a week, it's useless, and if you don't come in rested and rest afterwards, it's useless, so you better have pure hypertrophy phases." Is it really so strict? Help? Thanks so much!

[Charlie S]

You're in a similar boat that I'm in, namely, not wanting or willing to drop other climbing mid week. A couple of ideas/points.

First, it appears as if hangboarding goes well every 4 days. Over the course of a week I think you'll lose any gains.

Second, I did not take away from the book that you must drop any and all outdoor climbing. It's a balance. If I'm going to train more, then yes, "just climbing" will decrease. HOWEVER, if your climbing is well below the MSS, or if you do the ARC sessions (indoor or out) the day after a hangboard session, you'll be able to maintain your climbing capability.

My schedule during the hangboard season is:
Sunday: Housework in the afternoon that I neglected to do on Saturday.
Monday: Easy climbing at gym. 1 hour later I do a hangboard workout at home. It's very important I don't climb too hard at the gym or I will squander my hangboard session!
Tuesday: "Recovery" ARC day and opposition/abs workout. I may also do a cardio workout over lunch since many of my climbs (including goal climbs) involve arduous approaches.
Wednesday: Opposition/abs/arms(other) workout. Maybe cardio.
Thursday: Maybe cardio. Hangboard session before dinner.
Friday: Easy climbing/ARC workout, might try a little harder depending on what Saturday is.
Saturday: Outdoor climbing, goal climbing, mental practice (i.e. cams and trusting the gear!), technique acquisition/refinement, and putting off house chores until Sunday afternoon.

A similar schedule will happen during the power phase. However, I have to be REALLY careful about my Saturday climbing after a campus board day. Baby those tendons and don't push them to pain!

Third: read chapter 14(?), the one about trad and big wall climbing. In this section, all of the caveats I had been wondering about came to fruition: outdoor climbing, having strong(er) legs for long approaches with heavy backpacks, and how to practice placing gear. I have been using the suggested periodization calendar in this section (modified specifically for my needs), compared to the standard one I used last season. We will see what the verdict is.

So, can you go "full rock prodigy" and still get the weekend climbing in? My answer is: yes. Realize that the intensity and difficulty of your weekend climbing may have to temporarily go down to reap the full benefits.

[Greying on Granite]

My biggest issue is that as I gear up for my performance phase, the entire point of my "performing" is a 2 week Yosemite trip for which I am ill prepared. My biggest weakness is far and away my mental game, comfort on rock, comfort pushing myself on gear and efficiency climbing/swapping leads. I'm technically in my "strength phase" right now and have been hangboarding as much as I can, but mostly I've been trying to get outside and climb long rock routes. I lift a bit when I can and do some crossfit because I need the overall fitness for a marathon series of multipitch days back to back.

The Andersons do a decent job of working actual climbing days into the routines if you read the book carefully enough, especially in their "trad/bigwall" section. I don't think you have to completely eschew climbing on actual rock to do the program so long as you tailor your choice in climbing to match the goals of your phase.

[MarkAnderson]

Great answers guys. I'll just echo that it IS possible to train and climb concurrently, it's just hard to optimize both at the same time.

On our podcast (see the "Independence Day" blog post) we describe how we schedule Jstar's training to incorporate lots of outdoor climbing.

[rorschah]

Thanks guys! That's super useful. I'll try it out and report back!