Question about schedule, powerphase

[iepsje]

Hello!
I just received the book 2 weeks ago and I am very pleased with it! But I have not jet finished reading, but am already starting to implement some stuff. But I have some question about scheduling, and am very sorry if it is in the book and I have not yet read it.   I hope you can give me some advice!

Background information: I'm a female from overseas (Netherlands, sorry for my English, it is not perfect), I'm 26 years old, climbing outside 7a (5.11d) some onsight, some flash some RP (2-4 try) and I really want to improve my climbing. (who doesn't ) I know that one of my weaknesses is power, lock-off power and dynamical moves, so I want to work on those for the next couple of weeks. I usually climb 3-4 times a week. If the weekend is spend outside on real rocks than 2 climbing days in the gym remain. At home I only have a fingerbord, and since yesterday a pulleysystem to help me. At the gym there are plenty of hard/physical overhaning lead climbs, a campusbord with small rungs, a fingerboard and a set of rings.

- Is it to heavy to climb on day A, focusing on physical routes, with lock-off and dynamica moves and doing a power secquence of pull-ups, push-ups etc focussing thus on the bigger arm and back muscles. And then on the next day doing a fingerbord session at home with only deadhangs (with pulleysystem) on different grips? Then a day rest (running) and then repeating the cycle all over again?

- Or could I better change the order, to hanging on the first day, second day climbing and big muscles, third day rest?

- Or shouldn't I try to combine finger workouts with power workouts?

Any advice or thoughts are more than welcome! If you need more information, let me know!






ps. I know that it is all about periodizing, and I made a planning for after my summer holiday, which is in september. So in October I will start with a full sequence, for now I want to focus of power and power-endurence.

(62 kg - 137 lbs)
(163 cm - 5ft 4in)

[MarkAnderson]

Aug 13, 2014 1:00:53 GMT -7 iepsje said:

No need to apologize for your English.  It's infinitely better than my Dutch, and we can understand you perfectly

I would not recommend training two days in a row.  I think it will be difficult to maintain the proper intensity on the second day, and over time your body will begin to wear down from so much volume.  If you are already in shape and climbing, I would skip the fingerboard session for now.  Once you are ready to begin training for Fall you can follow a typical periodic training schedule that includes fingerboard training, as described in the book.  If you decide to continue training two days in a row, I would recommend doing the fingerboard training on the first day, with climbing on the second day (unless you are attempting to send a goal route on your climbing day, in which case you should do that first, when you are rested).

Also, if power and dynamic movement is your weakness, I recommend you start learning how to use the campus board at your gym (see chapter 7).

Hope this helps,
Mark

[iepsje]

Thank you Mark! I thought as well that it would be to much, but I like training. And especially if the weekend is spend somewhere where climbing or training is not possible, i would love to get as much out of the rest of the week as possible.

I am learing how to use the campusbord, but my fingers are not strong enough. At my climbingspot there is one small campusbord, with one size rungs and those are very small! I can deadhang on the rungs, but even that is heavy and there is no pulleysystem. It will come with training I hope.