Specificity vs Intensity

[Evan H]

I think this concept could be applied to several phases, but my question relates to the power endurance phase. At my gym, I have access to a treadwall (which is fantastic!), but I do not have setting or taping privileges (I asked). My projects are characterized by off-vert, technical sequences on very small holds, but given the nature of the setting at gyms in general, it's hard to create a sequence that maintains specificity. For instance, if I set the treadwall at nearly vertical, the foot holds are far too generous to create the right intensity. Conversely, if I kick the wall back or do LBC's on steeper walls, I can get super pumped, but the climbing is now a different style. For my money, it seems getting the right intensity is the main objective, sometimes at the expense of specificity. Any other opinions?

[MarkAnderson]

Evan,
I've found in the case of PE, it's usually better to optimize intensity at the expense of specificity if necessary.
Clearly this will only work within some range of relevance, but it's hard to know exactly where those boundaries lie.

It's still helpful to use the right hold types if possible, if even differences in steepness necessitate the use of different hold sizes.

For example, the bulk of my PE training is done on a 33 degree overhang, because that's what I have, but I will still vary the hold types to suit my goals. Usually I'm emphasizing edges, pockets, or both.

[Evan H]

Hey Mark, thanks for the reply. I think that makes a lot of sense. Given that I no longer have my own wall, I'm at the whims of the gym setters. I've been striving to use appropriate holds, even if the angle is steeper.