Campus training: Moon Spacing adjustments

[avaserfi]

I recently started structured training and just finished my fingerboard cycle which I started just prior to the book's release. Moving to the campus board I had to rely on my local gym (unless someone has a great compact campus board design, I am stuck driving 45-60 minutes round trip for campus training). The rock gym I climb at has a nice campus board set up (three boards all at varying angles from about 10-30 degrees). The biggest issue is that everything is done using full moon spacing.

This morning was my first campus board training session. I followed the beginner's suggestions, despite their recommendation for half-moon spacing. The overall experience wasn't too bad, but I had trouble with the final set 1-3-5 sets which I was not able to complete. Should I adjust my routine because I am using moon spacing? Any recommendations on how?

For reference my climbing background: Just hit the 1 year point in my climbing. Mostly indoors (60+hr a week job and living 4 hrs from the crags make getting outdoors tough). At my gym I am about 50/50 flashing v4's and tend to project into the v6 territory. A 12- typically takes me 3-5 burns. Outdoors I haven't really done any hard bouldering and haven't had enough opportunities to redpoint harder routes (instead focusing on more variety for the day I am able out). I have on-sighted a few 10s (with a big case of lead head), but haven't gotten on anything harder.

[Mike Anderson]

I'm not sure I totally understand your question. Are you saying that the rungs at your gym are 22cm apart (full moon spacing)? ...and that makes it difficult to follow the beginner campus routine?

If that is the case, that can be really tough. You can still get a lot of valuable work done, but it will be more monotonous because you won't have as many options. Stick with basic ladders for awhile (1-2-3), then you can progress by doing transitional exercises like 1-3-4, then 1-2-5.

[avaserfi]

My gym has full moon spacing. I did my first campus routine at beginner difficulty without any adjustment aside from the fact that i used a full moon board. It was hard, but i was able to complete the entire workout except for the 1-3-5 sets at the end. 1-3-4 was doable for me on full moon. This was my first structures campus board training. Previously I have just played around on a campus board a couple times.

I was wondering if I should make any other adjustments to the routine because I only have access to a full moon board. Or just keep working at it until I can do the 1-3-5 on full moon. Then start tapering in more intermediate portions into my routine on future cycles keeping in mind the increases.difficulty.

[MarkAnderson]

I would just keep at it. When you're starting out, its better to do multiple reps of exercise you can complete, as opposed to failing on exercises that are too hard, so if you can do 1-3-4 but not 1-3-5, do 1-3-4 a few times and try 1-3-5 once or twice each session.

Have you asked your gym to add half-rungs? If you could get them to add just one (at position 1.5), that would help you a lot.

[Mike Anderson]

OK, I understand now. I agree with Mark, focus mostly on exercises you can accomplish. You might also try Doubles, which are easier to do across the large gaps you are dealing with. I would definitely ask about adding rungs. I would even go so far as to ask if I could add then myself. If the staff is clueless about training, bring in the RCTM and show it to them...people tend to be more convinced by pretty pictures

[avaserfi]

I just had my second campus board session. 1-3-5 is still a little much for me right now, but I'm able to do a good number of the 1-3-4. I happened to be training while the lead route setter was and he suggested I incorporate 1-2-4 into the routine with the 1-3-4 while I was trying to work up to the 1-3-5. This was I would have a mix of a large start (1-3-4) and the smaller start with a larger finish (1-2-4).

Based on later conversation, he already seemed familiar with your book and the original article too.

[Mike Anderson]

Yes, in my first reply, I meant to write 1-2-4, not 1-2-5.