How to Adapt into Current Training Routine?

[jach]

I am trying to adapt a RCTM plan for my teen climber, who competes at the youth level and wants to specialize in lead/sport and speed climbing.

Recently we had to change from a program setting with coaches to self-training (or more realistically 'parent-facilitated' training). We want to help our youth climber stay motivated with continuous and healthy improvement.

Our climber's current schedule is as follows (session length of around 3hrs):

Monday lead and bouldering (50/50 focus)

Wednesday lead and speed (75/25 focus)

Friday speed only

Sunday lead projects and speed (50/50)

FYI We're pretty good with graphing progress relating to speed climbing since it's one simple metric (time).

We're not sure beyond looking at "grades" or event performance at a competition (not my preferred metric), what are constructive and healthy ways of tracking progress.

There are other baseline metrics like # of pull-ups/push-ups, continuous minutes on systems wall that we can measure, but what else can we do to help ensure our motivated youth climber continue to improve even though he no longer has formal coaching support?

Some ideas I have are the following - but I welcome any/all suggestions
- Movement Drills as foundation and have youth climber work through drills for each session
- Use Grade Pyramid as foundation and have youth climber work through the pyramid over a set period of time
- Incorporate ARC training since this hasn't been part of training routine

I'm hesitant to share climbing grades etc. because these are very subjective, but our youth climber may be considered "advanced" level on a spectrum of "beginner / intermediate / advanced / elite").

Thank you for your wisdom, and I hope this is the correct folder to post!

[sbleazard]

I don't know if the RCTM's periodized approach would be as good as your current nonlinear approach bc it is what they're used to. I have been experimenting with nonlinear training (training all facets of the sport each week, with emphasis on one and the goal to maintain on the others). I am new to it and it hasn't been very good, but others find great success with it (I probably just need to get it better figured out).
The main facets are strength, power, power endurance, and endurance (ie. ARCing).
Your athlete seems more interested in climbing only (as I don't see any mention of things like hangboarding/strength training exercises in there, which is great bc that's what works for them and that stuff is boring). Drills are a great idea! (you could put them in their warmup or in low-intensity climbing like ARCing). Perhaps you could do something like this:

Mon. endurance bc it's the 2nd day on, so power wouldn't be at its peak (warmup and then ARCing or high volume of low-intensity lead routes)

Wed. strength/power after some rest (warmup and some limit boulders or speed)

Fri. power endurance (warmup and circuits on a system wall or an anaerobic lead route and a cooldown)

Sun. strength/power (same as Wed., choose limit boulders or speed after a warmup)

Note: This is a strength/power-specific plan, bc your athlete wants to train for speed, a power-intensive discipline, and lead, a power endurance/endurance intensive discipline. But, "Without strength, there is nothing to endure". But if you're about to do a lead comp you could switch Wed. for a power endurance day...)

Measurable metrics: volume of ARCing, work to rest ratios for system wall circuits, and sending limit boulders