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Post by heelhook on Dec 13, 2014 10:40:25 GMT -7
Hi! I'm going through my first macrocycle after getting the book, which, incidentally, I'm loving. I have sent my first 5.12a and then my first 5.12b since starting training. I'm on the strength phase and going to the power phase next week. Issue is, because of the holidays, I'll be traveling and won't have access to a good campus board (I've called all climbing gyms in the a 100 miles radius of where I'll be). I have the alternative of delaying the power phase by two weeks by pausing all training or I can extend the strength phase. I will have the opportunity to have access to a hangboard (not the usual RPTC I've been using at home though), although it won't have a pulley system to remove weight (mostly because I won't have weights). What would you guys recommend? Thanks! Pablo Edit: I will have access to this gym for a few days, but that campus is of really small rungs and its pretty high, so getting to it requires climbing the roof first. I could do the bouldering part of the power phase on this gym if that makes sense.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Dec 13, 2014 14:42:11 GMT -7
If you can get to the gym on a regular basis during your vacation, I would recommend just Limit Bouldering, and save the campusing for when you get home (or just skip it this cycle). Also, you could spend a few minutes during each bouldering session campusing on climbing holds. You won't be able to push your limits quite like you can on a real campus board, but it will still help train aggression and accuracy.
Trying to hangboard in a new place, with a new board, and no weights is ill-advised, especially at the END of your Strength Phase when you should be red-lining on just about every grip.
Remember, doing a little bit is way, way better than doing nothing, so even if you can only get to the gym for a short amount of time, twice a week, do it. It doesn't take a lot to maintain the strength you've built up, but if you do nothing for two weeks you will definitely regret it.
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Post by tedwelser on Dec 13, 2014 17:28:00 GMT -7
This gym looks ideal for limit bouldering. Plenty of options for hands and feet, including semi crimp edges on all the walls.
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