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Post by sbleazard on Apr 5, 2021 11:51:06 GMT -7
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Post by jetjackson on Apr 11, 2021 17:30:55 GMT -7
I'd be somewhat inclined to say that hangboarding is a silver bullet for untrained climbers. Coming out of lock-down I observed many climbers pushing their climbing up significantly because they hangboarded for the first time.
Perhaps a better way to put it, is that there is low-hanging fruit to be picked in training that will get the average person from 5.10- up to 5.11+/5.12. However, the further you go up the grade range, the less 'low-hanging fruit' there is. I recall reading on a post here by Mark that he has pushed for so many efficiencies in training, that getting further out is like getting blood from a stone - or something along those lines.
To a degree, I can commiserate with the rant - coming from other sports before climbing, I was into bodybuilding and weightlifting - there is a lot of 'bro-science' in that space, and one of the key items of feedback given to newer bodybuilders, is to stop changing their workout every 2nd week. Stick to something for at least 6-12 months and see how it is working for them. However, in that game they also talk about 'changing-up' to 'trick' the muscles, because the old workouts get stale and don't stimulate the same response. That is a valid point, but newer body-builders think after 3 months of training, and 2 weeks of diminishing progress that they have hit a 'plateau' and need to change up their workout to trick the muscles. Thus they are susceptible to YouTube fitness stars with click-bait videos who promise them even faster, quicker gains with their work-outs. YouTubers like Athlene-X typically use this sales approach to gain subscribers - It's the 'Let me tell you why 'insert standard workout approach' is wrong, and why I've got the silver bullet for you'approach. 0 These are just the old 6 minute abs, no 5 minute abs... no, 1 MINUTE ABS! race to the bottom workout marketing tactic.
To round out the above example, bodybuilders talk about 'noob gains'. An untrained person, who takes to bodybuilding, might put on 10-20 pounds of muscle in their first 12 months of bodybuilding, thereafter, the gains are much slower and diminish as the years go on (unless you take PEDS) and most bodybuilders will struggle to gain more than 5 pounds a year of lean muscle. Essentially they have picked the low-hanging fruit and they have to work harder for further gains. You see all the time bodybuilders who have had these 'noob gains' wonder why they have 'hit a plateau' and they end up changing up their workout routine way too much trying to chase those 'noob gains' they will change their routine well before they can actually determine whether or not the changes are working, they will spend $$$ on supplements and possibly even turn to performance enhancing drugs, they will spend $$$ on the silver bullet workouts online etc.
As climbing training media on YouTube and other sources matures, it is suffering from this same 'race to the bottom'. There are now 1000s of 'How to Train' videos, as climbers flock to these media sources seeking fame and money - either through YT revenue, or through just increased exposure for their sponsors, or their own ego's. Without being too harshly judgemental on this, what this has resulted in, is increased competition for climber eyeballs. Thus, there are more 'silver bullet' promises on social media for climber than there were 5-10 years ago.
Climbers see 'noob gains' in their first 6-12 months of training and go from 5.10 to 5.11 and maybe 5.12 relatively quickly. Then progress slows, but they see examples of other climbers who climber 5.13 or V10 in under 18 months and wonder why it's not happening for them - they ignore that those climbers came from sporting backgrounds or literally just focused on climbing and nothing else the entire time. They try a raft of different workouts and none of them progress them any quicker. They get frustrated and pour over r/climbharder posts and get deep into the minutiae. they read posts and comments like the one I'm writing right now, but they ignore them, because 'perhaps they're a unique snowflake'.
In reality, the search for the silver bullet is perhaps something that we all have to go through, either in climbing, or in some element of our life elsewhere, and until we learn it and gain the wisdom that comes with that, we will keep chasing for it. Sounds like the person writing the post you have linked has worked through that very process and come to the conclusion that there are in fact, no silver bullets.
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Post by Charlie S on Apr 12, 2021 20:28:11 GMT -7
I heard that the silver bullet was more sleep...
Which is probably why I'm so weak right now.
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jaime
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by jaime on Sept 8, 2021 20:14:49 GMT -7
The silver bullet is climb better and train smarter! A lot of people don't climb enough rock and also don't know how to train. They go to the gym and try a few v6s and a few routes until they are pumped, they do a few pull-ups and go home. Then they show up at the crag, get scared on the 5.11 warm-up try 1 or 2 "hard" routes and go home complaining "I need to train more". The key for getting good at rock climbing is being always psyched to train and to climb, a lot of people underestimate that.
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Post by sbleazard on Sept 14, 2021 14:43:55 GMT -7
The silver bullet is climb better and train smarter! A lot of people don't climb enough rock and also don't know how to train. They go to the gym and try a few v6s and a few routes until they are pumped, they do a few pull-ups and go home. Then they show up at the crag, get scared on the 5.11 warm-up try 1 or 2 "hard" routes and go home complaining "I need to train more". The key for getting good at rock climbing is being always psyched to train and to climb, a lot of people underestimate that. Psyche is important! I think that there are only a few things that actually make EVERYONE (no matter body type, gender, fitness, etc.) better. |
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