I’m looking for feedback on shoes. I’ve tried a lot and purchased a lot and can’t seem to find the right shoes. I was looking for feedback on what others use and or suggest.
some information - boulderer and sport climber in southeast US. Mostly on sandstone..
here is where I’m at today
shoes I’ve tried Evolve shaman - heel too wide black diamond shadow - heel too wide 5.10 - every shoe I’ve tried heel is too wide Sportiva solutions - heel fit and worked well.. solid shoe but caused awful hot spots on top of toes
shoes I use/own today mad rock drone LV - great heel, toe box too narrow.. super soft shoe mad rock drone HV - heel a little wide but can cinch down with the multiple options to Velcro. My go to for indoor climbing, and roof problems. To soft and weak edging shoe for me. black diamond focus - crazy stiff and heel too wide but edges unbelievably black diamond aspect - stiff flat shoe, heel too wide only use for ARC honestly
really struggling finding the right shoe, or I’m just impossible to please. Looking for a semi stiff, slightly downturned shoe that is low to medium volume.
Any suggestions or am I just picky AF and need to use multiple shoes and live with dead space around the heel?
Last Edit: Feb 27, 2019 17:49:11 GMT -7 by bjones625
I would suggest finding a store/gym that carries many different types of shoes and trying them all on.
Alternatively, order a lot of shoes to be delivered to your house, try them on, and return the ones you don't want to keep.
I like the Tenayas. When I decided to try them, I called up the guys at Trango and told them my plan. I got a rough size estimate and then placed a big order for three different sizes of several shoes.
Based on all your inputs I would try the Evolv Oracle. It is narrow in the heel, slightly down turned, a little more flexible than the Shaman, and I found I didn't get the top of foot hot spots some of the other Evolv shoes (Aggros, X1) gave me. It is lace up (which I don't usually like) so you can get a bit more of a custom fit. Only negative is the cost ($175) but I feel that way about most shoes these days.
I can't compare them to the drago or maestro, but I found them to be really similar to the Testarossas in both fit and style. This is how I sized them relative to my other shoes; hopefully some of these models are helpful for comparison: