How long will you be there for? If it’s a long enough trip that you can afford to build some PE on the rock there, then I might try to do more of a hybrid power/PE phase - e.g. 1x PE workout per week, 2x power workouts.
I've been mainly volume based so far this year (around 20 routes at the wall or 10-15 routes and foot on campussing), but just about to go to the wall to make some inquires about what I can do on the campus board (footless). Rather aware that it's still 6 months before my trip so taking care not to peak too early in the season. Having panic attacks about getting half way up the Grande Grotte and powering out keeps the psyche high...
Alright, so here’s kind of an initial assessment with this trip basically over.
1, my onsight and redpoint ability here was pretty poor. Despite excellent numbers on the hangboard and a record-setting power-endurance phase, this translated poorly to the cave dwelling, tufa pinching, stalactite wrestling climbing we were seeking out. This wasn’t a failure to train, but rather a failure to train properly. The few face-y and short bouldery routes here (up to 5.11d) felt “easy” to onsight or flash. Any other style felt near impossible.
Lesson: I need to spend far more time on my 30 degree wall next time instead of the 15. Also, the hangboard should be adjusted for larger holds with more weight and pinches.
Or, look for face climbs. Honestly, the face climbing here was on par with the excellent face climbing in the Arizona strip. We came here for tufas, so, that’s what we got on.
2, the thing I did do right was shoulder work. Lots of bench I-Y-T’s and I felt well equipped with that muscle group. Adding lat pull downs would have helped a little too. I’m not sure where to have added this as adding more pulling tends to aggravate my elbows.
3, headspace. I hadn’t touched real rock since January, and I felt out of my comfort zone on falls into space where getting back on to the rock would be a problem. Or crashing into tufas. Realistically, these were non-issues but I let it get to my head and did not spend time simply falling to get over it.
4, priorities. This trip was unique in that my non-climbing wife joined, along with 6 other friends. Relationships are arguably more important than climbing, but she was gracious and we worked out the appropriate level of climbing and touristing together time.
On the climbing priority side, focus was on breadth instead of depth. For this trip, it was hard to get wrapped up on a single climb because there are over 3000 routes here! We focused on variety and a different crag each day. While this is bad for redpointing, it is good for mileage. Some holds and moves I’ve never imagined were performed. Good ideas for the Barn...
So finally, how to modify for next time?
ARC: maybe take some liberties on true ARCing and focus on more volume bouldering on the 30 degree. Strength: larger holds with more weight and pinches. Power: Moonboard. I did some campusing this season but I don’t feel like it was very specific. PE: bigger holds, steeper wall, instead of smaller holds on a less steep wall.
Last Edit: Mar 19, 2019 22:53:00 GMT -7 by Charlie S