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Post by candice on Nov 1, 2018 17:30:08 GMT -7
Seven weeks into my first training cycle and it's going well! The book combined with this forum is an amazing resource.
My question is - how do people adjust with missed training days? Due to a lot of last minute travel, I only completed four hangboard workouts in the strength phase out of seven. Should I move forward to the power phase? Or should I extend this phase a week and make up for the missed training days? Because I'm such a novice I'm sure I can do either and have minimal loss in gains. Just wanted to know what other folks do in this situation.
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Post by Chris W on Nov 1, 2018 19:53:12 GMT -7
That may depend on what your training calendar looks like and what your season goals are.
I think that if something totally flubbed up my strength phase, I'd probably start over with a new strength phase and go from there.
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 2, 2018 15:50:07 GMT -7
I would think that, given the point in your climbing career that you are at, that strength is probably more important than power. Personally I'd throw in another strength session and then move on. Really in your first season you're learning how to train as much as you are getting physical adaptations. Learning to work training around your schedule is all a part of that.
Personally, I rarely ever get a conventional season in, but I have gone from climbing 5.10d to 5.12c in 8 cycles with the RP method.
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Post by candice on Nov 2, 2018 18:12:30 GMT -7
Thanks all. It sounds like I'll do another strength session and I'll figure out power next cycle! I did my first 5.10- today so something's working! It's not super hard but something unthinkable for me a month ago!
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Post by Chris W on Nov 3, 2018 3:45:28 GMT -7
Nice job. The training can make a huge difference. I'm a bit of a RCTM disciple though. When I started, I was falling all over a local 11a. Now my hardest redpoint is 13a. Keep working hard.
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jkm
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Post by jkm on Nov 8, 2018 16:57:08 GMT -7
Hey guys - I'm new to the forum and in my first cycle of RCTM. I didn't want to create a new thread because my question is very much related. I'm currently towards the end of my strength phase, but I have an outdoor trip planned that begins the day after my last hang board day (HB7 = Wednesday Nov 14th). The trip is the 15-18th. Should I be concerned about climbing on the 15th (as there is no ARC scheduled for that day, but I will definitely want to climb outside)? Do you think it would be fine to go directly into the power phase when I get back from the trip or should I do another 1-2 HB + SE workouts? Any help would be much appreciated
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 8, 2018 18:35:55 GMT -7
Hey guys - I'm new to the forum and in my first cycle of RCTM. I didn't want to create a new thread because my question is very much related. I'm currently towards the end of my strength phase, but I have an outdoor trip planned that begins the day after my last hang board day (HB7 = Wednesday Nov 14th). The trip is the 15-18th. Should I be concerned about climbing on the 15th (as there is no ARC scheduled for that day, but I will definitely want to climb outside)? Do you think it would be fine to go directly into the power phase when I get back from the trip or should I do another 1-2 HB + SE workouts? Any help would be much appreciated The way I would look at it is, you can either climb hard on the outdoor trip, or you can strength train, but you can't do both. That means that your outdoor first day will be pretty average from a performance perspective. Personally, on a day like that, I'd just do super easy multi-pitch or trad - I mean easy, like 5.4-5.6 compared to normally sport climbing 5.11-5.12. Other factors - how do you currently feel - are you super fresh, do you have any niggles in your elbows or fingers, because if you do, increasing volume is very inadvisable. If I had niggles, I'd be taking a full 2 rest days, which would mean I would skip the hangboard workout so that I could do a full 3 days on with a 4 day trip that has a rest day. 15th to the 18th is a 4 day trip... Most people cannot climb hard for four days. Consider that you could, just belay on the first day and rack up your belay credits, then climb the second day, take of the 3rd day, and then climb the 4th day - if you were to keep the HB7 session. If you're still in the beginner-intermediate phase, outdoor climbing should be the preference anyway if your lifestyle does not allow you to get outdoors all the time. In which case, say drop the hangboard session, and then just try and find some fingery outdoor routes or problems. Again, hard to know without so much more detail. Reality is, you really start to understand how your own priorities work around the RPTM cycles after a few cycles and you get better and better at it. Understanding what your weaknesses and strengths are, why sacrificing a HB session to get a weather window to boulder outdoors might be a good decision, backing off for injury etc. I'm dropping my 7th and last HB session for this cycle, and jumping straight into power because - I've hit my PBs on strength in the 6th session anyway, and currently finger strength is not my greatest weakness. I have a little niggle in my right elbow and I don't want to push it further, so I'm throwing in another rest day. Weather looks good this weekend, and so I'm going to boulder at the Grampians tomorrow with some friends, which will help with my power, and then Sunday I'll go on a bunch of super easy multi-pitch trad with my wife, plugging as much gear as possible - that will help me practice my trad placements, and keep my wife psyched on climbing, which is also important Check out my google spreadsheet schedule to see what I mean, and how, as per my comment above, I rarely ever get a 'conventional season' - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1czf4NgXSR4sdTi5hoNOwWLJWQ4gAVUasqA-Z4GlhFMY/edit?usp=sharing That's a bit of a spray down, but suffice to say, I don't think there is one simple answer - this isn't that prescriptive.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 8, 2018 19:45:54 GMT -7
What type of climbing are you planning to do on your road trip?
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Post by daustin on Nov 8, 2018 23:09:26 GMT -7
Hey guys - I'm new to the forum and in my first cycle of RCTM. I didn't want to create a new thread because my question is very much related. I'm currently towards the end of my strength phase, but I have an outdoor trip planned that begins the day after my last hang board day (HB7 = Wednesday Nov 14th). The trip is the 15-18th. Should I be concerned about climbing on the 15th (as there is no ARC scheduled for that day, but I will definitely want to climb outside)? Do you think it would be fine to go directly into the power phase when I get back from the trip or should I do another 1-2 HB + SE workouts? Any help would be much appreciated do you have another trip later in the year that you’re trying to time with a performance phase? If not, I’d probably stop doing dedicated HB workouts for the next week and get a couple sessions of hard climbing in before your upcoming trip. Often takes a few days to ramp back up into climbing after a HB-heavy strength phase, so I’d try to shake that dust off before your trip. After your trip you could go into power or just start another training cycle, depending on your calendar.
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jkm
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Post by jkm on Nov 8, 2018 23:47:03 GMT -7
The way I would look at it is, you can either climb hard on the outdoor trip, or you can strength train, but you can't do both. That means that your outdoor first day will be pretty average from a performance perspective. Personally, on a day like that, I'd just do super easy multi-pitch or trad - I mean easy, like 5.4-5.6 compared to normally sport climbing 5.11-5.12.Other factors - how do you currently feel - are you super fresh, do you have any niggles in your elbows or fingers, because if you do, increasing volume is very inadvisable. If I had niggles, I'd be taking a full 2 rest days, which would mean I would skip the hangboard workout so that I could do a full 3 days on with a 4 day trip that has a rest day. 15th to the 18th is a 4 day trip... Most people cannot climb hard for four days. Consider that you could, just belay on the first day and rack up your belay credits, then climb the second day, take of the 3rd day, and then climb the 4th day - if you were to keep the HB7 session. If you're still in the beginner-intermediate phase, outdoor climbing should be the preference anyway if your lifestyle does not allow you to get outdoors all the time. In which case, say drop the hangboard session, and then just try and find some fingery outdoor routes or problems. Again, hard to know without so much more detail. Reality is, you really start to understand how your own priorities work around the RPTM cycles after a few cycles and you get better and better at it. Understanding what your weaknesses and strengths are, why sacrificing a HB session to get a weather window to boulder outdoors might be a good decision, backing off for injury etc. I'm dropping my 7th and last HB session for this cycle, and jumping straight into power because - I've hit my PBs on strength in the 6th session anyway, and currently finger strength is not my greatest weakness. I have a little niggle in my right elbow and I don't want to push it further, so I'm throwing in another rest day. Weather looks good this weekend, and so I'm going to boulder at the Grampians tomorrow with some friends, which will help with my power, and then Sunday I'll go on a bunch of super easy multi-pitch trad with my wife, plugging as much gear as possible - that will help me practice my trad placements, and keep my wife psyched on climbing, which is also important Check out my google spreadsheet schedule to see what I mean, and how, as per my comment above, I rarely ever get a 'conventional season' - docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1czf4NgXSR4sdTi5hoNOwWLJWQ4gAVUasqA-Z4GlhFMY/edit?usp=sharing That's a bit of a spray down, but suffice to say, I don't think there is one simple answer - this isn't that prescriptive. Very solid breakdown, given the limited information. Thanks for the advice and thanks for sharing your schedule, that is definitely helpful. I haven't had any issues arising from HB-ing so far and don't feel fatigued during/after ARC the following day (or the day after that doing OAE). I think earning belay credits on the first day is a sound strategy (hopefully the peer pressure will be low on day 1). I have heard of Grampians, but never researched it at all. www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GpwWBShuRQ The waviness in the sandstone is pretty spectacular. Sounds like it will be a good time with friends and the wife. Enjoy Let's say I end up doing HB7 on Nov 14th, earn belay credits on Nov 15th, Climb 16th and 17th, and then rest day on the 18th. Is it too aggressive to begin power on the 19th?
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jkm
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Post by jkm on Nov 8, 2018 23:48:49 GMT -7
What type of climbing are you planning to do on your road trip? We are headed to Moab area, so most likely all trad/crack climbing.
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jkm
New Member
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Post by jkm on Nov 9, 2018 0:09:10 GMT -7
do you have another trip later in the year that you’re trying to time with a performance phase? If not, I’d probably stop doing dedicated HB workouts for the next week and get a couple sessions of hard climbing in before your upcoming trip. Often takes a few days to ramp back up into climbing after a HB-heavy strength phase, so I’d try to shake that dust off before your trip. After your trip you could go into power or just start another training cycle, depending on your calendar. Yeah, I have another trip that is supposed to coincide with the performance phase. The trip next week is to Moab area and was planning on only doing moderate trad routes below my limit.(it will be the first time I've been there so don't know how the ratings compare). Going directly into power sounds good to me Thanks for the advice!
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Post by jetjackson on Nov 9, 2018 3:01:59 GMT -7
I always leave 2 days off after 2 hard days on. If it was 2 easy days of trad, I'd probably only take a day off. But it would have to be super east. To me, power training is the highest risk of injury so Im always pretty cautious on it now. Also Im 34 so takes me longer to recover.
Yeah Grampians is my home crag... about 3 hours away but I get out there about every other weekend.
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 9, 2018 19:09:12 GMT -7
Well, having not read any other responses, I would say don’t worry about it and just have fun on your trip. It’s relatively hard to over do-it trad climbing.
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 12, 2018 12:01:41 GMT -7
We are headed to Moab area, so most likely all trad/crack climbing. If you are familiar with jamming and want to try hard, I'd suggest skipping HB7, do your trip, and then complete HB7 a few days after you return. I will do this when a good weather window opens and I go down to the Creek for 3-5 days. If you don't know how to jam, you'll spend your trip learning technique. Performing HB7 really won't affect your trip too much. You'll feel pumped and weak. It won't be because you're not strong; it'll be because jamming is an art that takes a while to learn. The face climbing in Moab doesn't get much harder than 5.11 unless you go to "The Creek That Shall Not Be Named" (Millcreek) but that's out of season now. P.S. Potash Road is a necessary evil but if you want some better quality rock without becoming roadkill, I'd recommend Maverick Buttress in Long Canyon or The Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Creek. Well, having not read any other responses, I would say don’t worry about it and just have fun on your trip. It’s relatively hard to over do-it trad climbing. not to mock Mark, and maybe I'm just weak (definitely weak), but I have definitely done myself in on trad climbs. Regarding the OP, I find that I get the most out of hangboarding. In their shoes, I would continue hangboarding, move to power when the strength has stagnated, and likely shorten Power-Endurance. This of course depends on the goal route.
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