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Post by Chris W on May 9, 2018 18:05:46 GMT -7
Has anyone found a point of diminishing returns when training the open hand edge grip?
In my last HB phase, I used the largest part of the SVDER and set a new PB, 5 reps at +50 pounds. It seems a bit silly to push the weight higher on that size edge, since the holds I'm grabbing on rock are getting smaller. Still, the open hand grip is the most common one I use, so I'm inclined to keep training it. I was considering switching to the Forge VDER and using the first or second "index bump" as a guide to make the grip smaller.
Has anyone found a point at which the open hand edge gets small enough that it's better to focus on the crimp? Anyone found friction to be more of a factor on small edges than finger strength when completing a set?
I'm having a bit of trouble articulating my thoughts and questions about the topic, but hopefully you get the idea. I'd rather not futz through an ineffective grip for a hangboard phase if I can help it.
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Post by cozisco on May 9, 2018 19:45:01 GMT -7
Anyone found friction to be more of a factor on small edges than finger strength when completing a set? I've definitely found this to be the case when training the fully open small edge. This past strength cycle I started training my 3-finger drag grip on the outside of the RPTC's SVDER, but it felt like I was mostly just shredding my skin and not actually building much strength. I think that's because the SVDER is too incut -- I only open hand slopey crimps anyway. For my next training cycle, I'm thinking of buying two slopey crimps and training directly off of those. Anyone have any suggestions of which crimps to buy? I think Mike trained on e-grips slopey crimps before the forge came along, but I haven't been able to find those. I'd love to buy the forge, but I don't think I can justify the price right now. |
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Post by korduroy on May 10, 2018 4:43:20 GMT -7
i found great success in switching from 4-finger open, to IMR and MRP 3-finger open but staying on the larger SVDER. I also continued the 4-finger open on a smaller edge as well.
EDIT - to elaborate, i found that after a certain point the edge becomes too small for 4-finger open. At this point i train it in half crimp position. While still training the other two grips (IMR &MRP) in open, i dont lose any strength (or plateau) with my open hand grips.
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Post by Chris W on May 21, 2018 5:18:45 GMT -7
Thread bump. Any other thoughts on this before I embark?
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Post by joshvillen on May 21, 2018 7:40:59 GMT -7
I can get on a v10 thin crimp line and Open Half all the holds so yeah....I am going to train it indefinitely.
Currently 1 arming 14mm 102%bw left hand and 110% right hand, see no reason to stop there
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dsm
New Member
Posts: 48 
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Post by dsm on May 21, 2018 10:09:39 GMT -7
About 2 seasons ago I switched from a 25mm incut edge to an 18mm slopey edge to train my open hand. Even with lots of weight off, the smaller edge makes me more tired and affects my later sets more. That said, I tend to favor my open hand grip, the training makes me feel much more confident on small holds, and I feel it helps me on slopers too. I'm not sure I'll ever stop moving down in edge size for this grip, but I'm nowhere near close to that point now anyway.
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Post by Charlie S on May 21, 2018 20:31:27 GMT -7
I've been on the Forge for 2 seasons now.
I still keep the large side for my warmup, but stop at +60. It starts to hurt the shoulders more.
The small side, friction is DEFINITELY limiting.
My goals have a lot of tiny edges and I still feel like there's a lot of improvement on that size hold.
EDIT: my current hold set looks like the following, and surprisingly, they are all over the place weight-wise:
VDER large
VDER small
Slopey crimp (the grip that's modeled after "Mark's favorite hold").
Micro edge (I don't use the crimp position)
MR pocket
IMR pocket
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