Post by stahax on Apr 10, 2018 17:11:40 GMT -7
I completed my first RCTM training cycle in late March this year. It resulted in significant gains, peaking in 10b/10c redpoints at Owens River Gorge. That's good for me, as I got back into climbing in mid-2017 or so, after a long (15 year?) hiatus.
I'm looking ahead now to climbing in Squamish in August this year, with a goal of redpointing a couple 10+ trad crack climbs there, particularly Exasperator Crack (10c). I'd like to get input on adding additional (finger/ringlock) crack-specific training tips to incorporate into all phases of my upcoming training cycle, which I'm starting at the end of this week, 16 weeks out from my trip.
I know the RCTM is skeptical about differences between trad and sport climbing, at least at harder grades, and to some extent minimizes tweaking training plans to address crack-specific goals. However, I'm not there yet - 10c doesn't qualify as a harder grade, and I need all the crack-specific help I can get. So I'm looking to the group for input.
I plan to add the crack-specific workouts below to the standard RCTM workouts:
For Base Fitness, I can add some crack ARCing. I've built a handcrack in my backyard, and I'll add cracks that are fingerlock and finger-size shortly, along with foot jibs for the latter 2 to make them less strenuous and more of an ARC workout. All the cracks are/will be dead vertical, and they're 12 feet tall.
For Strength, I built a crack hangboard a while ago, and I plan to add finger and fingerlock hangboarding to my regular hangboard routine.
For Power, I don't have great ideas yet. I could adjust foot jibs on my backyard cracks to make them more strenuous, and just crank on them to add a crack limit boulder workout (?) Not sure about the best option here.
For Power Endurance, same idea - I can adjust difficulty on my backyard cracks (by changing foot jibs) to approximate a 4 x 4 workout or linked bouldering circuit. It'll be klugey, but better than nothing. I think.
Any ideas about how to optimize this plan to maximize crack strength and endurance? I'm open to suggestions on all facets - the existing plan, how to integrate with the rest of my workout (as I said, I'll still be doing the regular RCTM workouts), and any additional workouts that might be helpful.
I'm looking ahead now to climbing in Squamish in August this year, with a goal of redpointing a couple 10+ trad crack climbs there, particularly Exasperator Crack (10c). I'd like to get input on adding additional (finger/ringlock) crack-specific training tips to incorporate into all phases of my upcoming training cycle, which I'm starting at the end of this week, 16 weeks out from my trip.
I know the RCTM is skeptical about differences between trad and sport climbing, at least at harder grades, and to some extent minimizes tweaking training plans to address crack-specific goals. However, I'm not there yet - 10c doesn't qualify as a harder grade, and I need all the crack-specific help I can get. So I'm looking to the group for input.
I plan to add the crack-specific workouts below to the standard RCTM workouts:
For Base Fitness, I can add some crack ARCing. I've built a handcrack in my backyard, and I'll add cracks that are fingerlock and finger-size shortly, along with foot jibs for the latter 2 to make them less strenuous and more of an ARC workout. All the cracks are/will be dead vertical, and they're 12 feet tall.
For Strength, I built a crack hangboard a while ago, and I plan to add finger and fingerlock hangboarding to my regular hangboard routine.
For Power, I don't have great ideas yet. I could adjust foot jibs on my backyard cracks to make them more strenuous, and just crank on them to add a crack limit boulder workout (?) Not sure about the best option here.
For Power Endurance, same idea - I can adjust difficulty on my backyard cracks (by changing foot jibs) to approximate a 4 x 4 workout or linked bouldering circuit. It'll be klugey, but better than nothing. I think.
Any ideas about how to optimize this plan to maximize crack strength and endurance? I'm open to suggestions on all facets - the existing plan, how to integrate with the rest of my workout (as I said, I'll still be doing the regular RCTM workouts), and any additional workouts that might be helpful.