Post by jrblack on Mar 31, 2018 19:21:29 GMT -7
I'm doing rope-solo laps on a gorgeous overhanging 10b that not many people ever climb. It's perfect for PE work at my ability level.
It's the left-most route on an overhanging cliff. I would like to avoid spending an hour stick-clipping up the thing to set a TR every time I go out there (and getting pretty worked in the process). But I obviously don't want to leave a rope with draws fixed on the route (it's rude, it'd be in the way if someone else wanted the route, and they'd get taken). What options do I have to ease the set-up burden?
The only idea I have is this:
Downsides:
Another idea is to run the line down the back side of the formation instead.. that's slabby so much easier to jug, but same other downsides as above.
Any ideas? The easiest solution is, of course, to just bring a partner and lead the thing, but partners are so high-maintenance.
It's the left-most route on an overhanging cliff. I would like to avoid spending an hour stick-clipping up the thing to set a TR every time I go out there (and getting pretty worked in the process). But I obviously don't want to leave a rope with draws fixed on the route (it's rude, it'd be in the way if someone else wanted the route, and they'd get taken). What options do I have to ease the set-up burden?
The only idea I have is this:
- Attach a couple of Petzl Delta Screw Links (https://www.amazon.com/Petzl-Delta-Screw-Link/dp/B0017VHWFM/) to the bolt hangers, then fix a retired rope to them and pull the base of the rope way off left (to get it off the route) and tie to a tree. Then I could just jug this line to get a TR set each time I visit
Downsides:
- It's probably against the rules (fixed ropes are not generally allowed in the Flatirons here in Colorado) and anyone doing the route would immediately notice it (because of the Screw Links and attached rope at the anchor)
- People could just take the line and the Screw Links (though I'd be out a max of $15 I guess)
- A fixed line would weather rather quickly after a few weeks in the sun and I'd be trusting my life to it
- I'll still get worked jugging a free-hanging rope... less than stick-clipping up for sure, but it's not a cake-walk
Another idea is to run the line down the back side of the formation instead.. that's slabby so much easier to jug, but same other downsides as above.
Any ideas? The easiest solution is, of course, to just bring a partner and lead the thing, but partners are so high-maintenance.
