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Post by Morty on Feb 21, 2018 21:52:06 GMT -7
I know the book says "climbers should have approximately 5 years of campus training before attempting it." but the intermediate info says " Once all of the exercises in this routine can be performed smoothly, transition to advanced campus routine" I've been campusing for 2 years and am on the verge of completing the routine smoothly (almost got the 1-2-3-4 small rung double dynos!!!) However I believe my max ladder is kinda soft. I can consistently hit small rung 1-3-5 moon spacing(sadly they don't have moon half spacing)
Thoughts?
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Post by tetrault on Feb 22, 2018 8:14:24 GMT -7
Do you ever feel any tweaks in elbows, fingers, etc. with your current routine?
Do you feel that the advanced routine will bring you closer to achieving your climbing goals?
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Post by Morty on Feb 22, 2018 10:28:45 GMT -7
I have slight irritation in the fingers, and I assumed that is normal. I am developing a deeper muscle ache in my forearms that doesn't go away completely after 2 days rest, primarily in my left arm. I feel like it might be due to the shock loading of double dynos. Kinda hoping it'll adapt. Other than that, everything feels good.
I don't think I'll transition to the advanced this cycle, but am trying to get more information for next cycle.
And yes, I feel it will help me. I can already tell it's improving my "go for it" mentality. When I look at a rung and think "that's too far away" and then I get it... great confidence booster, that I think can be applied to real rock.
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Post by Morty on Feb 22, 2018 17:32:13 GMT -7
But I would like more than just my opinion. What do you guys think? next cycle? wait 3 more years of cycles?
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Post by Chris W on Feb 22, 2018 21:12:44 GMT -7
I've taken the approach of advancing based on how smoothly I can complete the protocol. The only danger of this is that tendons take a long time to adapt to stress.
For what it's worth, I'm not doing double dynos at all. I don't think they're applicable to my needs at this time and feel they could hurt me more than help.
I'm 35 years old, and the LAST think I want to do is hurt myself training. One of the (many) reasons I train is to prevent injury. If I were "on the verge" of completing the routine smoothly, I would likely keep it as is until I was definitely completing it smoothly.
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Post by Morty on Feb 23, 2018 10:20:45 GMT -7
Thanks for the input! And yes that makes sense!
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