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Post by tradmike on Nov 5, 2014 15:47:45 GMT -7
I'm trying to figure out my training plan and am thinking of following the trad plan, as it is mostly what i climb at Devils lake in Wisconsin. Right now i am currently climbing around the 5.7 grade, and would like to push that up to 5.9 or even 10a But need to find the right route to aim for. Anyhow here are my questions.
I Was planning on starting to train this coming Monday the 10th of November. The problem i'm noticing is that this will have me peaking around February 23 or so and i worry that the weather will be to cold then to get on the rock, but then again who knows what the weather will do.
This Also leads me to my next question. What should i do about getting the outdoor milage? Can i substitute arcing in the gym for this? The only thing with gym climbing is it does not translate well to trad climbing i feel.
Really hoping to get the most out of this and really dedicate myself to hard work ad seeing results. Just want to make sure that ifi do this now i', not going to suffer due to lack of outdoor milage when the weather turns to crap here.
Thanks
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 5, 2014 18:28:00 GMT -7
Mike,
Ya, ideally you could get outside somewhat during the BF phase, but it's not the end of the world if you don't. If you weren't training at all, you likely still wouldn't get outside AND you wouldn't be any stronger. You can substitute gym ARCing for OM no problem. Another option is to occasional do indoor lead climbing instead of OM. That way at least you are getting on the sharp end a bit, even if it is clipping bolts inside.
As for the timing of your peak, I would consider the historical weather at DL and try to align your peak with a promising weather window. Presumably that will be some time later than Feb 23, so in that case you can either extend the length of your phases to delay the peak slightly, or add a mini-cycle on the front end if you need to delay your peak by a month or more. There are several threads on here about training through long winters, so check those out if you'd like more info.
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Post by tradmike on Nov 5, 2014 19:21:50 GMT -7
Yea i was looking at the plan and thinking of maybe adding two more weeks to the base fitness phase and that would be me at least into March. I also could add one more week onto the PE phase as that is only one week in the trad plan. By adding on these three weeks, im hoping that by the 16th of March it should be at least tolerable to climb outside, we shall see. Also lastly anything different i should be doing while arcing with a trad goal in mind? for example wear a weight belt, or even my rack while at the gym to get the effect of the weight on harness .
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 6, 2014 11:47:46 GMT -7
I wouldn't recommend do anything different along those line. Just focus on trusting your feet, and moving efficiently. Practice shaking in awkward stances (which you should do anyway) to simulate hanging out to place gear.
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vm
New Member
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Post by vm on Nov 10, 2014 14:06:36 GMT -7
I think the best thing to do is to train to become the best climber you can be. To better understand you, I think you should include what do you climb on sport. If you climb 5.7 on sport and 5.7 on trad it is a much different situation than if you climb 5.10b on sport and 5.7 on trad. If you climb a lot stronger on sport, than improving at trad is mostly technique/skill dependent and to go from 5.7 to 5.8 you usually do not need much gain in physical department. If you are an all around 5.7 climber at the moment, training with your own body weight should be sufficient enough. Trying to climb things at your limit and above it (indoors) should help you gain the skill and technique to be a much better climber overall. Lugging 20 lb west up something that does not take as much skill will not help as much. My advice would be to avoid the weight vest and pick climbs at your limit/above it. And practice techniques that will help you climb more with your feet and less with your arms. Also assess your weight and see if you could drop a few pounds. Being thinner helps a lot. Work on your flexibility - stretch. Most important of all, have fun and stay psyched! Good luck!
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 12, 2014 19:48:40 GMT -7
Right now i am currently climbing around the 5.7 grade, and would like to push that up to 5.9 or even 10a But need to find the right route to aim for. So, when I was at this ability level, it took just one good fall on a cam to make me start climbing 5.9s and occasional 10s. Especially if you're climbing 5.10s in the gym, the ability block is psychological. I try to get at least 1 or 2 falls in a season now during trad OS/RP attempts. Took a nice one on an 11a earlier this fall. It's amazing how seeing that piece hold boosts confidence! |
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Post by tradmike on Nov 13, 2014 15:09:19 GMT -7
Funny you mention that i took my first fall on gear last weekend onto a number 2 c3 and seeing it hold does give you a boost of confidence.
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Post by tradmike on Nov 13, 2014 15:09:42 GMT -7
Funny you mention that i took my first fall on gear last weekend onto a number 2 c3 and seeing it hold does give you a boost of confidence.
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 13, 2014 18:24:12 GMT -7
A nice, sporty piece to fall on to!
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