Post by cardiffsurfer on Oct 29, 2014 13:30:38 GMT -7
First, thanks to both Andersons for a wonderful book. It has been very motivating and I've learned a lot.
I'm 39 and have been climbing off and on for about 10 years. I started leading sport and trad about 3 years ago, and have been getting more serious as of late. I want to get stronger in both disciplines, but I also enjoy casual climbing with friends, whether that be at the gym or outdoors, and all the camaraderie involved. I'm not quite ready to throw myself 100% into training. I suppose I want the best of both worlds..
I'd love to hear any stories, lessons learned, etc. from those of you that have followed a training plan, but using a more casual approach than the one outlined in the RCTM. I'd also love feedback and criticism/suggestions on my training plan, which I will include below. I suppose I'm looking for a balance between genuine training, which should be a no-nonsense affair, and purely recreational/fun climbing. At this point in my life, my goals and motivation level places me in between these two arenas.
After getting the book, I started ARC training and have been doing 3-4 sessions per week, mixed in with my typical "fun-oriented" approach to climbing. This has helped quite a bit, and has already pushed me past my previous plateau of several years. I've onsighted a handful of 11a's outside and up to 11d in the gym. I would absolutely love to break into the 12's on bolts. Except for the occasional soft route that is suited to my strengths, I typically get shut down on anything 12a or harder. I boulder at a miserably low level outdoors and at the V3-V4 level in my particular gym.
I've been dieting for the last 5 months and have dropped about 15 lbs. of fat, and my goal weight is 160 lbs. (currently 170). Since adulthood, I've yo-yo'd between 170-200 lbs., so time will tell if 160 is a reasonable level to achieve and maintain over the long term. I do not have a typical climber's build, and I love pizza and beer.
My goals? Easy 10's on gear and easy 12's on bolts, or roughly a full number grade increase over my current level. Time frame? Let's say 18 months from now. My trad goals are more mental than anything else, but I figure if I can confidently lead 12a on bolts, it will give me enough of a mental buffer that 10a won't seem nearly as scary on gear.
As it stands now, I'm able to get into the gym 2 days/week, occasionally 3. I get outside 2-3 days per month. I do have a hangboard at home, but no wall to warmup on (alternative suggestions?). My ad hoc plan is to do the following:
Primary Training: Hangboard 2 days/week until an obvious plateau has been reached. 4-6 weeks rest (too short or long?). Reset weights and repeat, with the goal of completing ~6 cycles over the next 18 months. If I'm going to focus on anything with real intensity, it should be hangboarding to build finger strength, no?
Supplemental Training: ARC training and Power-Endurance training (4x4's, limit bouldering), eventually adding the campus board once I'm able (nagging finger/tendon issues and lack of strength prevent me from campusing now). I can't decide if I should mix and match the above based on how I'm feeling day-to-day, or if I should follow a more structured plan that focuses on periods of one or the other.
Sample 2-week schedule:
Monday: Hangboard (using the RCTM weight-based progression model)
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Rest or light ARC session + casual climbing in the gym (stay away from strenuous projects and limit problems)
Thursday: Hangboard
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Hard ARC session (2 x 25-30 mins at MSS) followed by "fun" projects, or climbing outdoors
Sunday: Rest
Monday: Hangboard
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Rest or power-endurance session + casual climbing in the gym
Thursday: Hangboard
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Fun climbing in the gym, work on hard projects, "flexible" day
Sunday: Rest
Travel, holidays, illness (I've got a 3-year old), etc. will most definitely throw the occasional hiccup into the above schedule, but my priority will be progression on the hangboard, while using the other training techniques to build general fitness and technique on the rock. Your thoughts are appreciated, and I will update my results back to this thread as time goes on! Thanks for reading, that ended up being a lot more than I expected!
Jason
I'm 39 and have been climbing off and on for about 10 years. I started leading sport and trad about 3 years ago, and have been getting more serious as of late. I want to get stronger in both disciplines, but I also enjoy casual climbing with friends, whether that be at the gym or outdoors, and all the camaraderie involved. I'm not quite ready to throw myself 100% into training. I suppose I want the best of both worlds..
I'd love to hear any stories, lessons learned, etc. from those of you that have followed a training plan, but using a more casual approach than the one outlined in the RCTM. I'd also love feedback and criticism/suggestions on my training plan, which I will include below. I suppose I'm looking for a balance between genuine training, which should be a no-nonsense affair, and purely recreational/fun climbing. At this point in my life, my goals and motivation level places me in between these two arenas.
After getting the book, I started ARC training and have been doing 3-4 sessions per week, mixed in with my typical "fun-oriented" approach to climbing. This has helped quite a bit, and has already pushed me past my previous plateau of several years. I've onsighted a handful of 11a's outside and up to 11d in the gym. I would absolutely love to break into the 12's on bolts. Except for the occasional soft route that is suited to my strengths, I typically get shut down on anything 12a or harder. I boulder at a miserably low level outdoors and at the V3-V4 level in my particular gym.
I've been dieting for the last 5 months and have dropped about 15 lbs. of fat, and my goal weight is 160 lbs. (currently 170). Since adulthood, I've yo-yo'd between 170-200 lbs., so time will tell if 160 is a reasonable level to achieve and maintain over the long term. I do not have a typical climber's build, and I love pizza and beer.
My goals? Easy 10's on gear and easy 12's on bolts, or roughly a full number grade increase over my current level. Time frame? Let's say 18 months from now. My trad goals are more mental than anything else, but I figure if I can confidently lead 12a on bolts, it will give me enough of a mental buffer that 10a won't seem nearly as scary on gear.
As it stands now, I'm able to get into the gym 2 days/week, occasionally 3. I get outside 2-3 days per month. I do have a hangboard at home, but no wall to warmup on (alternative suggestions?). My ad hoc plan is to do the following:
Primary Training: Hangboard 2 days/week until an obvious plateau has been reached. 4-6 weeks rest (too short or long?). Reset weights and repeat, with the goal of completing ~6 cycles over the next 18 months. If I'm going to focus on anything with real intensity, it should be hangboarding to build finger strength, no?
Supplemental Training: ARC training and Power-Endurance training (4x4's, limit bouldering), eventually adding the campus board once I'm able (nagging finger/tendon issues and lack of strength prevent me from campusing now). I can't decide if I should mix and match the above based on how I'm feeling day-to-day, or if I should follow a more structured plan that focuses on periods of one or the other.
Sample 2-week schedule:
Monday: Hangboard (using the RCTM weight-based progression model)
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Rest or light ARC session + casual climbing in the gym (stay away from strenuous projects and limit problems)
Thursday: Hangboard
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Hard ARC session (2 x 25-30 mins at MSS) followed by "fun" projects, or climbing outdoors
Sunday: Rest
Monday: Hangboard
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Rest or power-endurance session + casual climbing in the gym
Thursday: Hangboard
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Fun climbing in the gym, work on hard projects, "flexible" day
Sunday: Rest
Travel, holidays, illness (I've got a 3-year old), etc. will most definitely throw the occasional hiccup into the above schedule, but my priority will be progression on the hangboard, while using the other training techniques to build general fitness and technique on the rock. Your thoughts are appreciated, and I will update my results back to this thread as time goes on! Thanks for reading, that ended up being a lot more than I expected!
Jason
