6 Things Learned on the Second Training Cycle

[Charlie S]

I just finished my second cycle.  My gains were not as pronounced as the first cycle, but I think part of that has to do that I picked and spent my time on significantly harder goals.  For instance, in this cycle I onsighted 1 5.11a, have been shut down 5 times on another 5.11a, "fell up" a 5.11c, and 3-hanged a 5.12a.  However, seeing that this time last year I was barely able to commit to 5.10s, I'd call that progress.  It's actually really cool to feel comfortable on 5.10s now.

Anyway, the lessons learned:
1.  TAPER!  The 5.11a onsight happened after 12 days off of outdoor climbing and right between the power and power-endurance phase.  The 5.11c attempt came after trying hard on another goal 5.11a and 5.12a about twice a week for 2 weeks.  (The 5.11a is an old Steve Hong route, and I personally think it's just a hair easier than the 5.12a.)

2.  Cardio is important to maintain for any approach which involves carrying a full trad rack (alpine routes or any trad climb in my neck of the woods).  Again, the taper rule applies.  I cut down from 3 cardio workouts a week to maybe once a week (depending on the week).  Apart from having a lazier lunch break (when I usually do cardio workouts), I'm not sure I felt any gains.  This goes hand-in-hand with my next observation...

3.  Consistent weight is more important than quickly losing weight (for me).  I know the training program recommends really cutting back on the last two weeks.  I didn't do this on my first cycle, so I tried it on the last one.  I think the weight management approach needs to be highly catered to your body type.  Completely anecdotally speaking:
a.) I don't gain muscle mass.  I gain fat mass.  Cutting the cardio and corresponding caloric intake didn't help me lose weight; I stayed consistent.
b.) Getting body fat down on me will require a combination of elevated heart rate and eating right.
c.) When you're down calorically, be prepared to be hangry!
Now, if you're someone who gains muscle easily, I'd totally recommend sticking to the guidelines.  But for me, I was sluggish and frustrated during this phase.  I am, of course, open to further insight and perhaps I didn't follow the plan quite right.

4.  Take falls.  On my 5.11a project, I took a 10 footer and a 20 footer.  I can now speak with confidence that my Red Alien and BD #0.3 will hold!  And that's one more piece of the equation to remove from my mind the next time I go for it.

5.  Observe your weaknesses and then tackle them.  That means on my next training cycle, I need to focus on sustained overhanging climbing (5-15 degrees overhanging) and off-fingers sized cracks (Indian Creek trip lined up for this part).

6.  The warmup is massively important!  Believe it!

[Jack Ziegler]

I have some comments that might help.
I've been doing mostly sport this year and have let my legs get skinny, but from years before I've found for #2, it's not so much cardiovascular training, but "hiking training". For me, just running never helped me much on approaches. Now running uphill or better yet hiking uphill with a pack at elevation every week or even just every other week was enough to stay strong in the legs. Way back I did squats and leg presses and this helped a lot with alpine approaches. For number 3, maybe you weren't eating enough protein? I think the reason running is not always ideal for loosing weight is that you will loose fat, but your legs could get larger muscles (or rather you could have smaller legs and be lighter overall). When I'm trad climbing I always wish my legs were bigger on the approach and descent, but whenever I get to a steep wall or overhang, I wish they were smaller! I also think, it's best if you are feeling sluggish to limit the diet period to a certain length no matter what the result so you have time to get the energy levels up in the performance phase.

[Charlie S]

Thanks for the comments. Specifically, cardio is almost exclusively The Stairmaster for 20 minutes unless all the machines are taken, in which case it's a run for 20 minutes with some up and down. I never do squats and presses.

As far as protein, my egg consumption went up significantly. The wife has weaned me off of a meat-at-every-meal diet to maybe a once-a-day or less schedule.

Guess I would say I never feel like my legs are too big. I do wish I had better technique, sense of balance and just a bit more endurance for that super insecure 5-move crux!

[gargano]

Hey Charlie. Cool to see a summary of observations from your season. Congrats on the solid progress! 

1. Agreed on tapering/resting. Working though a training season always takes some pep out of me, and it's hard to conjure performance that reflects the training without some time off.  I've found that resting for a few (2-3) days before a goal route makes a huge difference. 

2. I agree with Jack that, while light cardio (20 min stairmaster or running) can help maintain basic cardio shape, for building work capacity it's helpful to hike hills with a pack or to do squats. It helps with cardio endurance as well as building strength and stability in the hip girdle, which also helps for long routes and leg-intensive climbing (strenuous stemming and technical slab). 

3. Diet and weight loss approaches/results seem to vary a good amount between people. I also get super low-energy and hangry when working hard and cutting the calories. I've found good results by eating energy-dense foods that are high in unsaturated fats and protein (avocado, nut butters, sardines). And nothing beats hard-boiled eggs! Cutting out dairy and eating more small meals that don't fill me up helps a lot, too. 

What supplemental exercises are you doing during the strength and power phases? 

[Charlie S]

My supplemental exercises stay pretty much the same regardless of phase:
Weighted situps (abs and lower back)
Dumbbell presses (not too much weight; simply maintaining) (pecs/tris)
Mountain Climbers with a TRX or suspended rings (pecs/tris)
Body curls (abs)
Good mornings (occasionally for my pitifully weak hamstrings)
L-hangs or windshield wipers (abs)
Levers, or rather, attempts at levers (full body)
Stretches