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Post by ehowell on Sept 27, 2014 13:06:42 GMT -7
The truth is, I want to get stronger on gear and bolts. Admittedly, I'm a better sport climber, and my goals and training are centered around sport projects. However, now that I'm on my second season, I've found that I'm having trouble fitting in harder trad routes into my schedule, and I pass on a lot of cool trips/days to all the wonderful trad climbing here on the Front Range. Last season, I used early-season outdoor mileage days to exclusively climb on gear, but to save myself for later workouts, I dialed back the difficulty. I'm doing that now as well, but again, I climb moderates to save my energy for training. I suppose ideally, I can wrap up sport projects first in the performance phase and move onto some hard gear routes, but that's assuming the early stuff will go down quick! Anyone else battle with this and have any suggestions?
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Post by Jack Ziegler on Sept 27, 2014 13:26:27 GMT -7
Plan a trip to Indian creek during the next performance phase. Very easy to challenge yourself there.
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Post by Charlie S on Sept 28, 2014 19:15:41 GMT -7
Or you could work them simultaneously. This last season I switched back and forth between some sport and trad goal routes. Their exposure to the sun/temperature helped me pick which one to go for!
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Post by MarkAnderson on Oct 9, 2014 12:39:35 GMT -7
I've had the same problem. I've used two different approaches. One is to start out sport climbing, and as your Power fades and your PE increases, transition more to trad-type goals. This is probably my favorite approach because it allows you to do both in the same season. I don't like to switch back and forth because I find it messes with my lead head. When I'm sport climbing well, I have a very carefree/go for it attitude, to the extent that sometimes I will climb past a bolt and forget to clip it. On trad I certainly make more of an effort to avoid falling, and I'm way more pre-occupied with when/where I'm going to get protection. I never think that way on a sport climb, but if I'm switching back and forth between the two I notice that my trad mentality can start to infiltrate my sport climbing, and I find myself less willing to dyno on onsights and whatnot. Many years ago I used to switch back and forth with relative ease, but in retrospect I think that's because I was climbing relatively conservatively in both styles. I didn't have the same confidence on bolts that I have now.
The second approach is to simply plan for a trad season or a sport season, and then spend the entire outdoor portion of the season doing one or the other. Even with this approach I might still dable in another style, but I wouldn't expect to perform at my very best in the other style.
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