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Post by The newb on Jan 14, 2018 3:08:12 GMT -7
Hi everyone,
I've just ended my first hangboard session at the gym but on the beastmaker. i got totally smashed.. i had to use my legs to give my fingers some support to keep hanging! is this normal for someone who has climbed just 8 months? i must say the base fitness went perfect i went from climbing 5b's to 6a+ - 6b,6b+ on toprope. so i'm really satisfied of my progress so far. i think it's going to be the hard way to gain the finger strength, but anyone got some tips? i dont have the trango rctm hangboard but only the beastmaker 1000+2000. should i do the hangboard routine of the app that it has or should i just buy the rctm hangboard?
any advice is appreciated..
Thanks!
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Post by tetrault on Jan 14, 2018 8:55:54 GMT -7
Patience is key. The quality of the workout is based on keeping proper form and intense focus/effort through the entire routine, not on how much weight you had to take off.
If you want to avoid buying a new hangboard, you could get more weights to hang from the pulley system instead. Or fill containers with water/sand/etc. if you want to avoid buying anything.
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Post by erick on Jan 14, 2018 9:35:52 GMT -7
Two thoughts, first if your needing to use your legs to complete the hangs then your resistance is too high. Either remove more weight with a pulley system or use a larger edge. If thats not possible I would highly recommend getting your own hangboard so that you can set up a pulley to use.
My second thought is that you are still VERY new to climbing in general and I personally would prioritize climbing way more. I did not start hang boarding till I had been climbing for 10 years. Its not necessary to wait that long but make sure you give your fingers a chance to adapt to the new stresses your putting on them. Make sure your using the beginner hang protocol and make thing as easy as possible for yourself. I would make the goal to complete 5 workouts without failure. You will learn more that way than redlining your fingers each time.
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Post by The newb on Jan 14, 2018 14:27:59 GMT -7
Patience is key. The quality of the workout is based on keeping proper form and intense focus/effort through the entire routine, not on how much weight you had to take off. If you want to avoid buying a new hangboard, you could get more weights to hang from the pulley system instead. Or fill containers with water/sand/etc. if you want to avoid buying anything. yes i think you are definately correct. Having good form is most important than having too much stress and not keeping the form. unfortunately the gymn where i am climbing at doesnt have a pulley system assembled.. altough they do have the space to do so. thats why i had to use my legs instead since i cannot use weight to take off. Two thoughts, first if your needing to use your legs to complete the hangs then your resistance is too high. Either remove more weight with a pulley system or use a larger edge. If thats not possible I would highly recommend getting your own hangboard so that you can set up a pulley to use. My second thought is that you are still VERY new to climbing in general and I personally would prioritize climbing way more. I did not start hang boarding till I had been climbing for 10 years. Its not necessary to wait that long but make sure you give your fingers a chance to adapt to the new stresses your putting on them. Make sure your using the beginner hang protocol and make thing as easy as possible for yourself. I would make the goal to complete 5 workouts without failure. You will learn more that way than redlining your fingers each time. I am going to try and assemble a stand or something to get the trango hangboard and assemble it at home with a pulley system. i think that will really help me so i wouldn't have to use my legs instead of the pulley system. but an advice would be apreciated on using the beastmaker app for hangboard workout or do i wait untill i get rock prodigy hangboard and start the strength workouts from begin again? is there a big difference? Thanks in advance guys! |
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tsh
New Member
Posts: 36 
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Post by tsh on Jan 15, 2018 9:36:59 GMT -7
With how new you are to climbing I think you'd have way more to gain by doing a bunch of bouldering, if you have access to it, and do that as your strength training at least until you get your hangboard with pulleys set up. Bouldering will allow you to practice a wide variety of hard moves and hone your technique which will pay off in spades, all while strengthening your fingers and upper body. Personally I would do the bouldering and wait until I start experiencing a plateau before starting a hangboard/strength program, or at least until you get your pulleys set up.
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Post by Chris W on Jan 15, 2018 15:56:07 GMT -7
I would go out of my way to obtain, and train on, my own hangboard at home. Perhaps I'm a bit snobbish, but I can't imagine hangboarding efficiently at a gym. If you have your own hangboard, you can set up a pulley system outlined by the Anderson brothers. This should help keep your finger tendons safe when you're training.
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Post by The newb on Jan 15, 2018 17:03:33 GMT -7
Yes i'm going to try the doorway pull up bar method with the trango prodigy hangboard. i th ink this will benefit me more than hanging on the hangboard at the gym.. about the bouldering part i do feel i am just getting better and better.. i am in love with climbing ! i just wish i started it earlier! by the way.. does anyone have any good recommendations on skin care? i do watch magnus mitbo's vlog and he uses this thing scholl foot file to get rid of the calluses on his hands...?
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