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Post by jrblack on Nov 13, 2017 17:36:38 GMT -7
A lot of people ARC without a belay (just traversing on a systems wall, for example). And very few people want a belay on a hangboard or while campusing. But then you get to PE and you have RP attempts on the weekends. Suddenly you need a belayer. Then you get to performance mode and you're trying to RP throughout the week. So how do you find this "magically appearing belayer" who materializes when you need him/her and leaves you to rest when you're in the other phases? I know a few of you will say the word "wife" but that doesn't apply to me.  |
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Post by MarkAnderson on Nov 13, 2017 18:57:16 GMT -7
It's best to have a pool of belayers to pull from (and to be a member of others' pools). Fortunately all of my partners understand the roller coaster that is periodic training, even if they don't do it themselves.
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Post by Charlie S on Nov 13, 2017 19:54:33 GMT -7
This has been a consistent struggle. I have one climbing partner who is willing to belay for projects. It helps that I return the favor when he's on his send mode. But generally speaking, having the giant pool is the way to go. It means being sociable at the gym (ugh!) or meeting up with friends of friend at the crag or during trips.
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Post by jrblack on Nov 13, 2017 20:31:26 GMT -7
This has been a consistent struggle. I have one climbing partner who is willing to belay for projects. It helps that I return the favor when he's on his send mode. But generally speaking, having the giant pool is the way to go. It means being sociable at the gym (ugh!) or meeting up with friends of friend at the crag or during trips. Sociable? At the gym?? Not sure how to do that when I'm ARCing for 30 mins on the system boards in the dusky back corners of the place.  I tend to climb in off hours... like weekday mornings. I need to meet some unemployed people. I guess the main worry about this social-at-the-gym thing is that you don't know who you're gonna get... could be this guy... |
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Post by Chris W on Nov 13, 2017 21:17:12 GMT -7
I have a list of people I call to ask for belays. My best time to climb hard is often in the morning on a week day when I'm working an evening shift. I go out of my way to ask people at any of our local climb & clean volunteer days if they are available to climb on week day mornings. My local crag is also relatively small. When I'm out on weekends, I sit back and watch people climb and belay. I learn who is a good and safe climber and belayer, and who isn't. I also get referrals from people who I know and trust.
Two years ago, I redpointed my project while belayed by a girl I hadn't met until that day. It was a weekend and I didn't have a climbing partner, so I just showed up and watched people. I watched her climb and belay for her friends and she was obviously competent. She was nice enough to belay for me when I asked, and it ended up being my redpoint burn.
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